The Romance of Travel beacons...

Dreaming of the Himalayas....

2012-01-02T00:17:00.008+05:00

(December 13 - 20, 2011)

Ever since my trip to Himachal Pradesh in 2006 and I caught tantalizing glimpses of the Himalayas from the Indian side of the border, I promised myself that sometime in the future I will visit Nepal and BE in the HIMALAYAS!

Well, it took me a couple of years since then to book my ticket to Kathmandu but hey, better late than never! After a hectic 2 months of working my ass off in the office, I had an 8-day accumulated off days that I need to clear so I thought why not go to Nepal instead eh?

I flew via Qatar Airways as they had a 30-day promo to Nepal for only U$626 for a return fare from Male to Kathmandu. I had a brief layover in Doha, the airport really did not impress me much. Nothing to rave about like Changi where you’d be wowed, it’s pretty basic (as in parang NAIA terminal 1 lang sya hahahaha). I expected a massive terminal with a huge Duty Free complex but it only has a small one-level DFS outlet…and that’s it! Oh well, at least I will not be tempted to buy anything at all!

Amazingly, there were only 2 girls in the flight (except for the stewardesses), me and a girl from Kyrgyztan (the first one I’ve met from that place!) so we immediately chatted up. Its visa-on-arrival for Filipinos so I had to fill up an application form, have a photo ready and the U$25 visa fee.

The visa officer was telling me, “stitch your photo”……”stitch your photo”….. I was like, “what did you say?”…..repeated it 3x…..and the officer pointed to the stapler……ahhhhh, putting two and two together, what he meant was, “staple your photo”….. hilarious!

I really have to commend Hotel Ganesh Himal (and the manager, Mukhiya Gurung), they sent a driver to pick me up at the airport complete with a board with my name on it……exactly, as he had said in his email! And to think it’s not even a guaranteed booking. The ride also is free. Bravo!

I shared my hotel transfer with Aida, my new found Kyrgyz friend and after dropping her off at her hotel, we agreed to meet up the following day to do sightseeing around the city.

Freaking cold!!!!!Brrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!! My feet curled up when it touched the floor……my toes shriveled up I think……I can just remember the pilot happily telling us, “welcome to Nepal, outside the temperature is at 8 degrees Celsius”.

My room though is very nice and comfy. I had a top sheet + woolen blanket + duvet……but was still cold and shivering, I think my body got over the shock only after 1 hour of tossing around in my bed! Oh God, I hope tomorrow the sun comes out and its better! For the meantime, I’ll just dream up of sunny Maldives! Hhahahahahaha

Welcome to freezing cold Nepal!!!!!

Cholon: Saigon's Chinatown

2011-08-03T00:22:00.186+05:00

On my last day in Saigon, I was able to muster enough courage to go ride in a bike! I know it’s a must for all Saigon visitors. The best way to experience life in Saigon is to get on a bike (or get a ride) and brave the streets of Saigon. Such an exhilarating ride!

I am off to Cholon today to visit the temples and roam around the biggest Chinatown in Vietnam. I initially thought Disctrict 5 is just close by, I mean within 30-45minutes walking distance but after getting lost somewhere in District 2 I gave up and flagged down a motorbike.

I had difficulty pronouncing the name, Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda, such a mouthful. Good thing, my driver seems to know exactly what I was trying to say and where to go. The temple looks quite simple from the outside, nothing ostentatious about it but inside the temple are some elaborate brass ornaments on display.

Built by the Fujian Congregration in 1902, the temple may look simple but when you look up you can see the creative designs in the roof. It seems to be an active temple also frequented by the local residents judging from the smoke coming from the burnt incense which permeates the whole place.

Just around the next corner is the bigger and more colorful (I mean, really red-colorful) Chua Quan Am Pagoda. I had fun teasing the guard outside about how many takes it took him to get my photo (he had to make me pretty, but my face is not cooperating! hahaha). He was so kind and obliging. Thank you very much!

This temple is built earlier in 1816 by the same Fujian Congregation and is dedicated to the bodhisattva Quan Am. The temple complex is composed of different layers, from the entrance gate you go to the front courtyard and proceed to the main hallway where the altar to Thien Hau (the god for seafarers) is at the center.

You go through a small door and it opens into another inner courtyard with the goddess Quan Am’s altar as the masterpiece. The place is swirling with incense smoke from the worshipers. The place is just so busy and full of people. All around the courtyard are various figures of Buddhist and Taoist mythologies which added more artistic flavor to the whole place.

On the next block is the Thien Hau Pagoda, which is a favorite stop for most Saigon City tour groups. Of the three pagodas, this is also my favorite. From the courtyard, you can already see the fantastic designs on the walls. Even the temple roof has a story to tell, or better make that, stories to tell about ancient duels between chiefs and warlords.

Inside the pagoda, it’s even more beautiful. The main courtyard is open air so the smoke just billows out to the sky and creates such a wonderful contrast to the blue landscape (feeling mo rin, your prayers will go directly to heaven! Lol). The inner roof designs are even more elaborate than the outer ones. It depicts of scenes or dioramas about 19^th century Chinese kingdoms.

Short but sweet --- my travel to Saigon comes to an end after my Cholon visit. Time to pack up my bags and hope to be able to come back to Vietnam once again.

Mekong Delta

2011-08-03T00:22:00.130+05:00

I stuffed my bag with wrapped Banh Mi sandwiches purchased from the roadside vendor near the Sinh Café office. I wasn’t able to have breakfast coz I woke up quite late and my trip for the Mekong Delta departs at 8am. It’s a bit costly than the Cu Chi + Cao Dai trip coz the Mekong Delta 1-day trip is 300,000 VND or about 15usd, still cheap enough as it comes with free lunch. I am alone for this trip as my travel buddy has gone back to Singapore already.

Midway through our bus trip to Cai Be, the rain started pummeling in really hard. Our tour guide was regaling us with stories about life in the Mekong Delta and the difference of having a wife from Saigon and one from the Mekong Delta. Since we have at least 110 kms to cover till our destination, his narrative (although I can’t understand him most of the time) was quite entertaining.

When we arrived at Cai Be, we took a boat towards the delta and just went around the whole place. Passing by some houses near the delta, sometimes waving to nearby boats either anchored or with owners also busy plying their trade. I really thought it would be a huge floating market like the ones in Thailand. There is not much to see actually. You just stay in the boat for the entire length of the journey.

Instead of small boats filled with different fruit and vegetable varieties, here in Cai Be the boats are bigger (and entire families sometimes live in these boats) and they normally sell only one or two produce. You will know what vegetable or fruit they are selling by checking the produce that they have tied up in a stick and placed in front of the boat, clearly visible for everyone to see.

The weather in the Mekong Delta is also very unpredictable, sometimes it rains really hard then after a few minutes it stops and the sun comes out. Our tour guide handed out free plastic raincoats for us to wear which is really needed.

One interesting tidbit that I learned from our very informative tour guide is the explanation for the design on the boats. Most of the boats we’ve passed by have a glaring eye design on their bows. Apparently, fishermen will paint their boats with dragon’s eyes to frighten away the crocodiles and other “sea monsters” living in the delta so they can catch more fishes.

We went ashore and explored the nearby local village, or more appropriately, browsed through endless “handicraft shops”. We just hopped from one to the other. There was a rice paper making shop, then had a cup of honey tea at another shop complete with a bee colony display, then to a coconut candy maker, and snake wine.

We went back to the boat again for a short ride to the Xeo May riverside restaurant. When our group disembarked there was another group already in the restaurant, this must be a popular stop for tour groups from Saigon. The food is not really that great, just your usual tourist fare except for this quirky deep-fried fish display.

I was really lucky in this trip that I met up with interesting and smart travelers. I never ran out of intelligent conversations all throughout the day, with people from diverse backgrounds, one is an educator from San Francisco and another one is a financial consultant based in California.

After the so-so lunch, we boarded our boat again for another ride through the Delta. I thought that this time around we will transfer to a smaller boat/canoe so we can go kayaking around the swamps area but really! Uggghhhh This trip is really not worth taking at all. Just a complete waste of time going around in circles, all over the river and everything so tacky and commercial, you can go for other day trips with a better itinerary than this one!

We were told that we will be heading on to the village of Vinh Long. Our tour bus was already waiting for us there. We have exactly 30 minutes for a toilet stop and for a quick look around at the nearby market. It’s basically a public market where most of the villagers within the Mekong Delta sell and buy produce. Markets like these reminds me of home…..hehehe

Awww….love this! I don’t know the meaning in the local language for “Bastos” or why it’s the name of a popular cigarette brand in Vietnam but it is indeed the suitable name for people who smoke, especially in public! Yes, they are Bastos! Hahahaha

Last item in our trip itinerary is a short visit to the Mekong Rest Stop. Despite its name (it conjures a row of public toilets and messy diner), the place does have its ubiquitous tourist restaurant, grocery, and souvenir shop but in a very artistic and classy setting. On its grounds are several replicas of old traditional houses complete with a bridge + pond background.

We arrived back in Saigon at around 5:45pm. I have another date later with Pho 2000 noodle shop and more bargain hunting at the Benh Thanh night market with my new travel buddies. Ciao!

Sightseeing around Saigon

2011-08-01T22:51:00.090+05:00

We’re off to explore the city of Saigon, armed with the maps that we took from our guesthouse. I was surprised when I arrived at the airport on my first day, I looked for a tourist kiosk with some brochures and I couldn’t find one although there was a counter stocked full of advertising materials! For a tourist destination like Vietnam and especially in a non-English speaking country, tourist brochures are a must ! Even Cambodia and Laos has them, so why not Saigon???? It doesn’t have to be as comprehensive as the one in Singapore or Bangkok, but at least an updated city map will do wonders!

We were looking for Truong Dinh street and passed by the gates of Tao Dan Park. It’s just a quiet public park filled with local residents, some doing tai chi exercises, others are playing badminton while some guys were busy chit-chatting and having tea with the sound of chirping birds over their heads. I really don’t know what the bird cages are for but it does look nice.

From the park we decided to visit first the War Remnants Museum (entrance fee is 15,000 VND). This is an essential stop for all Saigon visitors as it houses memorabilia and photographs about the Vietnam War and effects of Agent Orange on the local population. On the grounds were old battle helicopters and machinery supposedly “captured” from the Americans.

Inside the museum, the building is segregated into different themes. One side of the 3^rd floor is dedicated to a photo exhibit about the victims of Agent Orange, while on the 2^nd floor you have a photo exhibit of the war and memorabilia display of bullet shells, bomb casings, and even some old VC uniforms.

The more you go up the floors, the more grim and depressing it becomes. As much as I want to learn about the history of the Vietnam War, the exhibit is still a bit hard to digest especially if you look at the graphic images of children’s corpses and the corresponding narrative about how local villagers were burned to death.

Next in our list is the Reunification Palace (or Independence Palace). A pretty impressive building set back a little bit from the main avenue. I would have wanted to go in and get lost in the history of the place (this is the site where the North Vietnamese army tank crashed through the gates and signaled the end of the war in 1975). This was used as the Presidential Palace of the South Vietnamese government during the war. My companions vetoed the idea of going in. Next time I’m back in Saigon, I promise I’ll go in and check the place!

From the road near the palace, the imposing façade of the Notre Dame Cathedral is already visible from afar. Built between 1877 – 1883 the cathedral is located right smack in the middle of the government square. Its towering spires and reddish hued brick exteriors really commands attention. I saw some local nuns probably visiting from other provinces (or maybe from neighboring countries?) and they became instant celebrities! Everyone wants to have their photos taken with them.

Inside the cathedral, tourists are not allowed to go in further. I followed the black-clad nuns and asked the caretaker if he can let me in so I can say my prayers. He probably believed that I am indeed a Catholic and let me in. The church interior is not really outstanding but what I found remarkable are these walls lit by candles by visiting families.

Just beside the cathedral is the General Post Office, it looks quite bland on the outside but really amazing on the inside. Even the huge photo of General Ho Chi Minh in the center of the lobby cannot distract from the beauty of the interiors. I love it! And so are a lot of brides to be, I guess! Hahaha

Outside the Post Office (even inside I think I saw one bride clad in her wedding dress having a photo taken!), we came upon a couple in their wedding dress and professional photographers having a photo session right there in the middle of the road!

Another favorite for bride photos is the Opera House. We are now in the posh area of Dong Khoi. All around us were boutiques from designer brands like Louis Vuitton and Burberry. Definitely expensive! Lol

We initially thought we were finished with our walking tour of Saigon only to discover the beautiful yellow-colored People’s Committee Hall. It’s just so perfect! The garden in front is so amazingly well-kept and trimmed. This was formerly known as Hotel de Ville and was used as the Saigon City Hall before becoming the headquarters of the Saigon (HCMC) People’s Committee.

Okay, we’re done with our itinerary time now for our lunch break! It’s going to be our last meal together with Jade as he is flying back to Manila later that night. Jean said we should try out the LP recommended Quan An Ngon restaurant which is just two blocks away from the Committee Hall.

I haven’t been to a lot of local restaurants in the city yet but Quan An Ngon is definitely one of the best! The restaurant is in an old reconstructed villa surrounded by a garden giving you that feeling of being in a home albeit a large open air one with a bustling around. They have cooks in different stations cooking live in various areas of the restaurant.

The food was gastronomic heaven. We just kept on ordering and ordering! The seafood hot pot is really delicious and quite filling. Our mistake was to order this as our last dish, after platefuls of spring rolls and beef noodles! Uggghhhh! I couldn’t even finish it! I wish I could take it back to our guesthouse! Hahaha

We were so bloated from lunch so we walked to Benh Thanh market to browse around for souvenirs. One thing I don’t like here in Saigon is that when shopkeepers see you checking out their wares or just looking lost like a tourist, they will grab you and start pushing you to their shops and start haggling with you.

After we said our goodbyes, Jean and I went back for a short nap in our guesthouse. We plan on going out again before 6pm to look for the new acrobatic show, Xin Chao. I am not much into cultural shows but Jean really wanted to see this new show. We kept on walking in the drizzling rain, back & forth in Pham Ngu Lao street as the website said it’s supposed to be in #2 Pham Ngu Lao Street, Circus Tent. After about an hour of walking the whole length of Pham Ngu Lao and then back again, we finally gave up and decided to go for the traditional water puppet show.

I know I should have listened to the warnings given in the guide book and also in most of the travel forums about taking the cyclo but I really did not expect such blatant show of extortion. After going in circles looking the Xin Chao show, we were already in Benh Thanh market when we decided to just go for the puppet show which is located near Tao Dan park which is just close by but after the nonstop walk in the rain I just want to go and sit somewhere. I negotiated for the price before going in, we agreed on 15,000VND each. So off we went. Then when we alighted the driver told me that I have to pay 150,000VND! I was so furious because I have repeated it how many times and even showed it in my hand during negotiation and for me to tell me that I am wrong now!

I was so incensed but still in a very cool manner I told the drivers (who are now shouting and glaring at us!) to wait coz I’m going to ask the building guards to talk to them. The guards and all the people milling around the place started talking to each other about the incident but no one really stood up and helped us. They were noncommittal and just kept quiet while some were looking at us silently. To end the whole scenario, I paid the drivers 30,000VND each. Okay, lesson for the day!

After the cycle debacle, our mood is definitely dead. We are not even looking forward to the puppet show anymore. Good thing it managed to surprisingly lift our moods up.

The Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre is located in Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street also in District 1. You can choose from either the 5pm or the 6.30pm daytime shows. The show is about local Vietnamese folklores and stories about village life as it features scenes about fishing, boat racing, and planting (complete with a buffalo with a flute!). Although we couldn’t understand a single word, the show was really great and it gave me a taste of what the water puppet shows in the North might be (I can’t wait to go to Sapa!).

Returning back to our guesthouse, we passed by a food cart selling Banh Mi sandwiches. Here’s my dinner. Bon appétit!

Cao Dai Temple + Cu Chi Tunnels

2011-08-01T22:51:00.041+05:00

We need to be at the Sinh Cafe office by 8:15am coz our scheduled departure time is at 8:30pm. As it is greatly recommended by Lonely Planet, there were a lot of local and foreign tourists taking trips thru the Sinh Cafe tour agency. From the sidewalk in front till inside the tour office, it was jammed with people waiting for their buses to arrive (while waiting, took a photo of this guy balancing a huge mound of sweets in his head!). Ours arrived quite late, maybe got stuck on the bus queue. We left Saigon at around 8:50am.

Typical of tour packages around Asia, our first stop was at a Handicraft center where we were shown how the craftsmen were making the souvenir items on display inside the showroom. For me, the stop meant at least short break for my legs (otherwise it’s a good 3hrs nonstop journey to Tay Ninh) and a quick rendezvous with the toilet.

Our main agenda for this trip is to visit the Cao Dai temple and the Cu Chi Tunnels. I was initially thinking of going to these places by myself and trying out the local transport. But one thing I realized here is that it’s even more difficult to be understood by local people. I don’t want to end up wasting my time getting lost in translation! So of course, I opted for the guided tour! It’s cheaper and more convenient.

Cao Dai is a fusion of beliefs culled from other major religions in the world. They believe in the teachings of Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, Christianity, and Islam, in addition to their indigenous Vietnamese animistic beliefs. The Great temple, otherwise known as the Holy See of Cao Dai (fashioned after the Catholic Vatican Holy See) is located in the Tay Ninh province. It has four daily masses every day; 6am, 12nn, 6pm, and 12 midnight.

Our tour group arrived at around 11:35am so we still have a lot of time in our hands to roam around the temple complex before the noontime mass starts. One thing you immediately noticed is the cleanliness of the place. Not a single leaf or piece of paper on the ground!

Founded by Ngo Minh Chien, towards the early part of the 20^th century it now boasts of an estimated 3 million-strong congregation. The temple (also the religion itself!) is a fairly recent invention built between 1933 and 1955. Even from the outside, the exterior is already an attention-grabbing masterpiece with its mish-mash of different mythical figures and very abundant use of vibrant colors.

Caodaism has a few interesting quirks as well. Everything seems to be uniformly organized, lines are even and proportional. There are different entrances for both men and women. Their beliefs in other religions are manifested in the different colors of the ceremonial robes worn by their senior priests, red for Christianity (I have no idea this color represents us! Hahaha), yellow is for Buddhism, blue is for Taoism, and white robes favoured by the rest of the congregation.

Inside the temple complex, tourists can go in and watch the mass from the viewing balconies on both sides. The interior is even more camera-friendly than the outside. Such a profusion of colors and shapes!

Our stomachs started grumbling already so we headed back to our bus and asked our guide if we can now have lunch! He said we will be stopping off in the Tay Ninh town proper for lunch at a local restaurant. It was a very touristy fare, which means the taste is nothing to rave about.

From Tay Ninh, it’s another 1.5hrs ride towards the Benh Dinh district where the Cu Chi tunnels are located, about 50 kms away from the city of Saigon.

It was drizzling a bit when we arrived at the entrance, so we immediately proceeded to the ticket booth (tunnel admission ticket is 80,000VND per person). Cu Chi is an underground tunnel network of over 200kms stretching from Benh Dinh to near the Cambodian border. This is a must-visit place for me! After a childhood spent watching Rambo movies, I wanted to go and see for myself the tunnels where the “Vietcongs” have hidden from the eyes of the GIs. I was really excited for this!

The tunnels were initially made during the Indochina War with France in the late 1940s till 1955. It was enlarged and extended during the Vietnam War. The Americans actually took over from the French in 1955 and what initially started as a North-South conflict escalated into a full-blown war until the Americans left in 1973. The Indochine countries has always been a warring group. They always fight with each other every couple of years or so. What made it “international” is the inclusion of the communist friends of the North (USSR and China) and the US foreign policy that made the Americans jump into the fray for “containment of communist expansion in the Indochine”. Whatever! But it did lengthen the war and took a lot of casualties from all sides.

First, we were ushered into a small classroom and our guide started giving us a lecture (more of a rant actually!) about the history of the tunnels. He did not dwell much about the first Indochina War but focused mainly on the “American War” and the atrocities committed during the 8-year war. If you are an American better not go in for this lecture coz it is totally biased.

After the talk, we went around the densely forested area and checked some of the exhibits they have. There was the display of various traps and homemade weapons and even left-over bomb casings. Exactly as I’ve seen it in the movies! Hahaha

All around the forest, you can find small huts dugged into the land with only the roofs jutting out. The infamous man-sized holes which were camouflaged so well (normally covered by leaves) but is used by the VCs to go in and out of the tunnels. Umm, I was tempted to try it out but with my current body weight…….maybe not! Lol

Then there was the firing range…..honestly, I really wanted to try the AK-47 but I got scared when I saw a lot of people wanting to try it out as well. It is U$1 per bullet and you can either share with your friends or just go alone but the minimum fee is for 10 bullets. I have a high respect for what a gun can do to a person, especially first-timers. I have a fear of guns (or of seeing people carry guns around) which I have cured by going to the firing range and educating myself on how to fire guns properly (I used a .45 caliber and 9mm semi-automatic). Hence, it was scary for me to see tourists firing away. Scratch the firing an AK-47 from my itinerary!

The most-awaited part is going down the tunnels. It was dark and claustrophobic. I waited till most of the people in our group have gone ahead so I won’t be caught in traffic inside the tunnel. I was busy taking photos and then wham! My camera battery died! Oh shit! I mean, of all times! Why it couldn’t wait till we finish this trip! Grrrrrrr

When we came back to Saigon, we decided to meet up with another Filipino traveler who is also in Saigon that time. We agreed to meet at Pho 2000, a very popular noodle shop which they said even Pres. Clinton has visited. Well, since it is also just in front of the night market then at least we can have a little bit of shopping first!

The Pho Ga (chicken noodle soup) is absolutely fantastic! Yummy and delicious! A must-try in Saigon.

For a nightcap, we went to AllezBoo Bar (this is a popular hang-out for backpackers who live around the Pham Ngu Lao area) to try their local beer, Bia Saigon. Cheers to us guys! It’s great to meet and travel with you!

Xin Chao Saigon!

2011-07-30T18:38:00.019+05:00

I don’t want to be surprised and get short of cash while on my holiday in Saigon coz I just came off from a 3-week holiday back home and my atm is totally wiped out so I promised myself to just try out the local transport first and no taking taxis on the first day!

It was a pretty straightforward arrival. No arrival cards to fill in. All you have to do is to line up at the Immigration counters and give your passport to the officer. Finito! This is a first for me! I’ve never been in a place where they don’t ask you to fill out an arrival/departure card. As in, sure kayo???? Lol

And then my moment of happiness at the currency exchange counters……”I wanna be a billionaire so fucking bad”……..hahahahaha

Loaded with Vietnamese dong with a lot of zeroes on it, I went out of the Arrivals Hall and went looking for bus #152, the airport bus which goes to the backpacker ghetto of Pham Ngu Lao in District 1. I found the bus driver sitting and lounging on the pavement chatting to some other drivers and when I asked if it’s the correct bus, he just signaled for me to get in. And what a cheap way to go, the fare is only 4000 VND (exchange rate is U$ 1 = 20,550 VND)! No need to pre-arrange your airport transfer for 10-15 usd as some hotels are charging, unless you arrive after 10pm that is!

Going by public bus is for me the best way to get over my intro to the city of Saigon. I need to get de-sensitized to the traffic jams that are daily features in the streets of Saigon, so I won’t keep on harping about it for my entire trip.

I am also lucky that a few days before my trip I got in touch with another Filipina travbuddy who is also travelling to Saigon on the same day. She offered to share her booked room with me so I don’t have to go around lugging my backpack and looking for a place to stay around Pham Ngu Lao. Thank God for generous people like her! Thanks Jean! I owe you one!

For 16usd, we had a clean twin-sharing room with AC and a spacious T&B. A real bargain yes, but when I first arrived and had to look for it, I had to walk a few blocks around Pham Ngu Lao street till I found #241, then some guys from a nearby hotel pointed towards a small dark alley…… oh oh, I was really hesitant to go in at first then decided to head on…… Ly Loan Guesthouse is really a surprise! A bit unnerving coz of the surroundings but it comes with a smiling house owner as a bonus!

I went out for dinner (a tasty pork dish then washed down by a pot of jasmine tea....i'm in heaven!), met up finally with my new roommate and also booked our next day’s trip to the Cu Chi tunnels with the Sinh Tourist agency.

Okay done for the day……..we have an early start tomorrow……

Tourist-friendly city of Singapore

2011-07-30T18:37:00.015+05:00

Singapore has become my favorite stop-over or transit point for my travels around Southeast Asia. Aside from the fact that you can find a lot of cheap bargains on flights (it is the regional hub for Tiger Airways, Jetstar, and other budget airlines), the city also offers a stress-free holiday.

Everything is organized and orderly. No chaotic mess at the airport on arrivals, at bus stops, or at train stations. Every single option is given to the commuters. Tourists can have a choice of either taking a taxi, a train, or a bus to any point in the city.

No need to ask also where to go. Everywhere you can see directions pointing you to various destinations. For instance, from my accommodation (I was bunking in with a friend) in Hougang Avenue I have to take a bus to Paya Lebar MRT station. Look at the bus interchange……if this was in Manila or in any other cities in Asia, the line would have been chaotic, noisy, and horribly looooong....

If you are in Changi airport and you need to transfer to the budget terminal for another flight, you can easily find your way around with all these directions…..

You don’t have to take a taxi for the entire time you are in the city, although Singapore taxis have by far one of the most honest taxi drivers in the region so I definitely recommend riding in one if you are not counting your pennies and wanted to get to your destination faster!

Singapore is definitely one of the most tourist-friendly places in the region.

Of sunsets and sunrises...

2011-07-15T06:40:00.009+05:00

Superlative! Astounding! Unbelievable perfection.......

These photos were taken during my July holiday in my hometown of Carcanmadcarlan. Although I don't know how to use my camera, the scenery is just too perfect that every click of my point-and-shoot camera captures the beauty of the landscape.

My mother woke me up at 5.30am so I can catch the sun rising over the tiny islands around Consuelo Bay, just in front of our beach house.

One time, I was on a motorbike with my brother and passed by the rice fields of Calagdaan, Cantilan. I had to ask him to stop so I can take a photo of this sunset!

The colors of my hometown.....

2011-07-14T22:22:00.041+05:00

I went home last month for about 3 weeks. I ended up with burnt skin from too much beach activities (well, if you count painting the walls of our beach house also as a beach activity! hahaha).

I decided to visit some nearby towns within my district, places that I haven't been to for a couple of years. Its great to be able to rediscover the beauty once again and recapture that feeling of awe and wonder.

Going around the place, I fell in love with my hometown all over again.

Cantilan

Lanuza

Road mishap

2011-06-29T14:36:00.030+05:00

I love train rides! We only have MRTs back in the Philippines so it doesn’t really count. I love riding in a train especially passing by landscapes like these. Whenever I’m in Sri Lanka, I always try to take a train as much as possible.

You always meet a lot of interesting characters in a train ride. There was this old ancient Srilankan man (as in really decrepit old!) who whispered to me, “Can I go with you to your hotel and stay in your room tonight”. WTF! Hahahaha I had to ask him to repeat it twice! Hahahaha unbelievably cheeky of him. I think I was able to answer him politely (with consideration to his advanced age, must be a sign of the onset of senility! Lol). It was hilarious!

During my ride back to Colombo, the train was a bit jumpy and I even had to put my bags down coz it might fly off the overhead racks. I thought it was normal so I did not freak out. This is the Third World so you should expect glitches like these as spices of travelling.

But a few yards away from the Fort Station the train stopped, I thought that we have arrived already but when I looked out we were not there yet although already near. What happened was, the train had completely jumped off the track and veered off. Good thing they stopped the engine before more damage was done. We could have toppled over, as one of the passengers pointed out.

Oh well, the vagaries of travelling……but of course, I won’t tell my mom! Hahahahaha these are the type of stories you keep to yourself otherwise parents will freak out and take away your passport next time!

I’m still not cured though…looking forward to my next train ride once again.

Ella

2011-06-29T14:36:00.023+05:00

I was dragging my feet and procrastinating, I don’t want to leave Haputale yet and was trying to convince myself that I need another extension day! Hahaha Eventually I moved out after breakfast and went to the train station to catch the 11:27am train. As usual, it was delayed and arrived late at 12:50pm. We left the station at about 1:20pm!

The train ride to Ella is over an hour of majestic scenery, it was midday but the beauty of the place is just so amazing. I mean, normally I would prefer sunrises and sunsets as the colors are more vivid but here it’s just perfection all the way and in all different angles!

The guesthouse owner, Martin, was there to pick me up. If you call ahead and let them know what time you will be arriving they will pick you up from the train station. So gracious of them!

I stayed at the Waterfalls Homestay, for me the best ever guesthouse I have stayed at in Sri Lanka in all of my years of travelling in this country. It’s just the place you need if you want a real holiday! You know, the type of holiday where you just let time pass you by. I just love this guesthouse!

I love the interiors! So kitschy and country chic with the traditional Srilankan twist. I can just go on and on about this place. The owners, Karen and Martin, are transplanted Aussies who initially came here to visit and fell in love with the place and decided to leave their life behind in Australia and come here to stay for good.

What they have done with the place is just amazing! My favorite part of the house is the outdoor veranda where I had my breakfast (I forgot to take a photo! I was guzzling my food with nary a thought of capturing the moment for posterity) with the sound of the monkeys and birds in the background and the music coming from the crashing waters of the Little Rawana Falls in the distance.

I want to live here now! Hahaha Too bad they were fully booked so they can accommodate me only for a night. Awwww! Even my roommate (I have to share the room coz it was really booked) had to also leave the following day. They only have 3 rooms in the house and it’s the most popular guesthouse in Ella so you really have to book in advance if you want to secure your booking.

I made the most of my short time in Ella. The afternoon after I arrived, I immediately went looking for the waterfall that I can see from the guesthouse, the Little Rawana Falls. You will have to walk through the train tracks until the metal bridge. Right after the bridge, you will see a small white altar and there is a small path going down and you will pass by a vegetable farm and from there you can hear the sound of rushing water from the waterfalls.

I went down the rocky cliff area and almost slipped. Ouch! Fallen flat on my bum but at least I did not slipped right through and fallen over. Although it did gave me a fright! I really thought (with my eyes closed and praying!) that I will fall over the cliff.

There was a couple staying at the guesthouse that night who just got engaged --- they did it at the top of Ella Rock. How romantic! We toasted them over champagne and dinner was just superlative! A great production of traditional Srilankan cuisine. I finished off the night with a shot of the local arrack. Hahahahaha Still the best way to ensure a good night’s sleep!

The following day I was up for more hikes before I leave for the night train back to Colombo. I walked from my guesthouse down to town for about 2kms and from the junction (I think it was market day coz a lot of vendors were there selling vegetables in the street) it’s another 2kms hike towards the entrance to the tea plantation and the base for the hike to Little Adam’s Peak.

It was noontime so I meet a lot of Tamil tea pickers on their way back to their houses for lunch. They were so nice and even indulged my request for a photo op with them.

Being fit for hiking is now only in my mind. My body keeps on screaming NO to me. Since I was doing the climb on my own, I don’t have anyone to hold my hand or keep me entertained while I slowly trudge on to the top. I stopped numerous times (it was also a bad time to go up coz the noontime sun is really draining me out!) and debated with myself whether to still go on but the view at the top is really amazing. I also felt good that I was able to do this on my own.

I did not stay long at the top coz it was blindingly hot. I came down and had a cool drink in a café just near the entrance gate. I need to cool off before I do the return hike back towards the town center.

I went back to the guesthouse to say my farewells. I was lucky to meet quite an interesting bunch of people, from the owners, to my fellow guests. Swapping stories over a cold Tiger beer with people from different countries, from different work backgrounds, is just so priceless. This guesthouse invites people to interact with each other. They just exude friendliness and warmth.

Well, time to go……. I do hope I’ll be able to come back and visit Haputale/Ella once again.

Postcard pretty town of Haputale (part 3)

2011-06-11T08:48:00.037+05:00

The beauty of Haputale certainly grows on you every single day. I have not regretted my decision to stay longer in this town as I was able to move around and explore the place at my leisure and not hurrying through my itinerary, ticking off the places that I need to see.

I decided to visit Lipton’s Seat and Saminale temple on my last day. I am amazed at the amount of tea I’ve been consuming since coming over to Haputale. The cold weather makes me look forward to having my hands wrapped around a hot cup of tea. Just for breakfast, I finish off a full pot!

Ever wondered where the Lipton Yellow Label tea bags that we brew up every morning comes from? The Dambatenne tea plantation was established by Sir Thomas Lipton in 1890 and encompassed about 2,500 acres spread out all over the Uva valley. It is home to over 1600 workers and their families. We did pass by worker’s houses and other estate facilities on our way up to the factory.

From the guesthouse, numerous buses used by the factory workers pass by especially in the mornings and you can take one of this to go up to the factory. But from the factory it is still a long way to go till the summit. I was too lazy to go for a hike so I asked Sanath again to take me to Lipton’s Seat.

Lipton’s Seat is located at the summit of the Poonagala Hills, the highest point within the Dambatenne tea plantation at 6,450 feet above sea level . You pass through a verdant landscape of rolling hills and mist shrouding the valley making you feel as if you are in the clouds. It can be tricky driving a tuktuk over the rougher part nearer the summit but Sanath seems to be an expert! I offered to walk the whole way and we can just leave his tuktuk at the base although I was relieved when he said it’s okay he can manage.

The fog had settled in when we got to the summit. The place was enveloped in white. I also couldn’t see anything at all but I did not want to leave the place without seeing the 360 degree view of the surrounding hills and even the shores of the South.

We whiled away the time by going to a wooden observation deck armed with a steaming hot pot of tea that the gracious plantation worker who lives nearby has offered for only 30 LKR! When the fog started to recede and got blown away, the sight which awaited me was truly awesome. I now understand why Sir Thomas Lipton used to sit in this summit to survey his tea kingdom. Superlatively beautiful!

I took a photo also of the beautiful Tamil women picking tea nearby. I felt bad though thinking that they are here from morning shivering in the cold mist-covered hills with their sacks hanging on their backs. But they always have a ready smile for all the visitors who pass by.

On our way back, we made a detour to visit the Samimale Rock Temple. From the Dambatenne Road, you can catch a glimpse of the temple perched on the side of the mountain and surrounded by trees. This is not in the usual tourist trail around Haputale, even Sanath had to ask for directions from the estate workers that we pass by.

You have to be careful going down to the temple as it can be a bit nauseating looking down the valleys and cliffs. The view more than makes up for the muscle strain. You have panoramic views of the town of Haputale and the surrounding valleys.

The rock temple itself is not really spectacular. It has some interesting and colorfully decorated spears in different sizes lined up in a concrete block and a very odd bull sculpture in the middle of it. The altar area has some images of Hindu gods made in a yellowish paste, maybe from dried turmeric paste ( a common spice used in this region).

I did not know what the significance is of the bell in the temple but I still rang it up to sort of say, Hello I’m here! hahaha

After the trip I stayed in the town centre to check my mails from the internet shop and I also want to do my final walk from town to the guesthouse, this time I’m doing it at dusk. I’m speechless! The scenery is beautiful beyond words! I am a novice at photography, I don’t know about proper lighting, ISO levels, etc….. but as I keep on clicking my camera it just continue on spewing nonstop all these gorgeous images.

Walking on the road and having my moment of introspection, I am so thankful that I have the luxury of being able to visit places like these. I love having the pleasure of being able to stay in one place just because you want to take your own time discovering its beauty. My own three days is not enough though, I wished I could stay longer but maybe there will be a next time.

My special thanks to the Dias family for that special Srilankan hospitality. I hope to be able to visit you once again.

Haputale: A trip to Diyaluma Falls (part 2)

2011-06-10T10:12:00.030+05:00

I had to wake up early the following morning coz I was invited by the family to join them and their guests to Diyaluma Falls. It is about an hour’s ride from Haputale, I’m not really quite sure about the exact distance coz we stopped over for about 15 minutes at Koslanda (the nearest village near the falls) to get some food supplies before heading on to the plantation where we will start our hike.

Due to the large Tamil population in this area, Hindu kovils are more present here than elsewhere in Sri Lanka except maybe in the Jaffna peninsula. You will pass by this colorful kovil on your way towards the plantation.

We hiked for about 20 minutes (or was it 30 minutes for me? Hahaha coz I know I was the last one to arrive on site and the others were already swimming by the time I got there!) through the plantation before reaching the natural swimming pools. These are actually pools of water coming from the mountains surrounding the area and cascading down these pools and going down before dropping off at the edge and becoming the 3^rd highest waterfall in Sri Lanka, the beautiful Diyaluma Falls.

My best memory of the place will not really be the astounding perfection of the landscape of Haputale but of the warmth and hospitality that I have received from the Dias family and Oliver (their German friend and regular visitor). They just embraced me into their family as if they had known me for years!

I really had fun frolicking in the cold water and getting splashed on. The food was also delicious albeit a little spicy! Oh well, I need a little spice to ward off the cold water!

I missed picnics at home where you also look for firewood, prepare the food right there, and cook it over the fire --- and eat with your hand! Yummy!

Oliver invited us to join him and the other guys who are going down towards the waterfalls. I chickened out when I heard them say it’s a little slippery going down and that it’s about an hour and a half away till the base of the falls. Instead, I went with the kids in the van and we just circled around to the falls and waited for them there. Hahahaha such a sissy!

Found a colorful grasshopper on our way back through the plantation. It was also not camera-shy at all. Lol

Such a truly wonderful day! And to cap it off, the sun was starting to set and the skies were becoming colorfully vivid while on our way back to the guesthouse. Perfect!

Postcard pretty town of Haputale (part 1)

2011-06-09T12:31:00.073+05:00

I took the Night Mail train from Colombo Fort station at around 8:20pm. It is extremely slow and stops in all train stations it passes by, even the minuscule stations in tiny towns or villages. If you want to be comfortable in your train rides (and in this case you need to be, as it is a 10-hour journey to Haputale!), you have to book at least 1 or 2 days in advance so you can still get “reserved seats”. These are numbered seats in both 2^nd and 3^rd class. You can still get on both of these cars for the unreserved seats but it will be a free-for-all scramble to get a vacant seat.

Good thing my seatmates were well-behaved but the guys in the other side of the aisle were not as lucky, there was a drunk old man who was shouting and singing nonstop and even vomited at one point. Ewww! The train conductor was really fuming mad and even threatened the old man that he is going to be ejected at the next stop if he doesn’t keep quiet.

I booked a room in advance at the White Monkey Dias Rest and they sent Sanath to pick me up from the train station. The poor fellow had to wait for me for more than an hour coz the train was expectedly late again! The guesthouse is owned by Mr. Dias and family. With just 2 rooms and a family cottage, it has a very cosy atmosphere.

The guesthouse is located far away from the messy town center of Haputale. There is not much to see at the town center, it is just where most of the shops are congregated. The bus station is also located just in front of the bakery. If you need cash, there are also 2 atm stations from the local bank branches. If your guesthouse doesn’t have free internet connection, there are 2 internet shops in town charging 60 LKR per hour.

I did not sleep a wink during the entire train ride so I immediately zonked off to bed when I arrived at the guesthouse. I only came out of the room after 1pm after a solid 5 hours of sleep!

I made arrangements earlier for Sanath to pick me up at 1:30pm to visit Adisham Monastery, a converted Scottish tea planter’s estate owned by Sir Thomas Villiers which is now the residence of the monks from the Sylvestrine Congregation (from the St. Benedictine fraternity).

At the entrance gate, you have to pay 25 LKR at the ticket booth before they let you in. I came on a Saturday so there were a lot of local tourists taking photos around the estate grounds as well. At one point, some of the guys even asked me to pose with them. I felt like a movie star! Hahaha

The monks normally won’t let visitors inside their living quarters but I was lucky that there was a special group who was there who had permission to go in so I latched on to them! Apparently, there are 3 rooms in the monastery which they the monks rent out but its not advertised and you have to send a special request. Nice way of experiencing how it is to live in a monastery, although a bit modern.

Afterwards, we were pointed to the souvenir shop where the priests sell the produce that they made themselves.

One thing that I love about staying in place which is at least 3kms away from town (nearer to 4kms actually) is that you get to experience and see the beautiful landscape spread out in front of you. I walked the entire length from the town to my guesthouse as I was coming back and the unbelievable scenery is just so amazing!

It takes about 35-45 minutes for the entire walk but I was so busy taking photos that it took me more than an hour! The weather also is fantastic! I am not a fan of cold weather and foggy afternoons but here in Haputale, I just loved it!

Every 15 minutes or so, the fog comes in and fully obscure the road and then it gets blown away and sunshine comes out with its clear blue skies. At one point, I was shivering from the fog and in the next bend I have the glorious sunshine beating on me. Absolute heaven!

It was still early when I came back so I decided to walk up a bit to Eagle Rock, this rock is just behind my guesthouse. If the “family cottage” is available at the guesthouse, I suggest that you book it as it has fantastic views of Eagle Rock, especially during sunrise and sunset. The guesthouse owner’s youngest son (Hiran) accompanied me and was my official photographer.

I told Hiran to walk a little slow as my old creaky bones cannot keep up with his energetic pace. The view from the top of Eagle Rock was astounding! It’s like a mini World’s End, but without the expensive entrance fees!

To get to Eagle Rock from the guesthouse, you have to pass by this tea plantation and if you are there on Mondays you can even chat with the old ladies who are picking the tea leaves!

I initially planned on staying for only 1 night here in Haputale but extended it to three!

Mt. Lavinia

2011-06-02T21:53:00.017+05:00

I had a free day in Colombo and rather than spending it in the chaos of the city I decided to get out and move to nearby Mt. Lavinia for a bit of sea breeze. From Galle Road, I took a ride on a bus which cost me only around 24LKR for the almost 20-minute trip. I told the conductor to drop me off near the Mt. Lavinia Hotel.

The hotel is still a long walk from the highway but I can feel the nice breeze blowing from the sea so I opted to walk the entire way. I passed by students who are waiting for their school bus to pick them up. They gave me their shy smiles and some of them waved and asked the typical “where are you from?” questions which I promptly answered, “from the Philippines”.

I was sweaty by the time I arrived at the reception of Mt. Lavinia Hotel. This is a very popular landmark here in Mt. Lavinia, built in 1806 as a residence for the British governor stationed in Ceylon that time, Sir Thomas Maitland. The place still evokes a Victorian-era charm with its colonial architecture and interiors.

I wanted to try their traditional Governor’s High Tea for a little taste of British tradition in an Srilankan setting. For 1000LKR, I got a tray of cucumber sandwiches, crepe rolls, scones, and some tiny Srilankan sweets and a choice between a pot of coffee or tea. I opted for hot tea as I am starting to get partial to having a pot of tea every afternoon, that’s what you get when you stay in Srilankan homes! I really love my cup of steaming hot tea in the afternoon.

You can visit the hotel from 3pm – 6pm if you want to taste what they have on offer for High tea or just simply have an afternoon off (instead of hot tea, you can have the Governor’s Iced Tea if you need cooling down!) away from Colombo.

I took a train going back to Colombo, it is a very convenient short walk from the hotel to the tiny train station of Mt. Lavinia. It was a scenic ride over the fast inter-city train, passing through Dehiwala area and the seaside. You can alight at the busy Bambalapitiya station or at the Fort station, I opted for the former so I can just walk towards Majestic City.

Tropic Inn @ 19 De Vos Avenue, Colombo

2011-06-02T18:20:00.021+05:00

I was surfing the Net looking for cheap guesthouses to stay in Colombo, as my budget is slowly getting drained out. There is really a dearth of affordable, safe, and clean guesthouses in Colombo these days. So I was so surprised to chance upon a real treasure of a place – Tropic Inn @ 19 De Vos Avenue.

The place is kept clean and tidy all the time. Really spotlessly clean, which is a rarity in Colombo guesthouses, well, even hotels for that matter! I was really surprised at how comfortable I felt in this place. Mohamed, the caretaker, will really make sure you have a fresh towel and clean linens all the time.

Despite its central location (in Colombo 4 – Bambalapitiya area), the tuktuk drivers will find it difficult to locate as it doesn’t have a signage outside the house although the address is well-positioned in front of the gate so you wouldn’t miss it. Better get the directions to the place beforehand, or else you can tell them...go via Duplication Road then turn right towards Galle Rd, 2 blocks prior to House of Fashion. It is near Majestic City and House of Fashion if you want to shop, if you are craving for junk food, there is Shakeys Pizza or KFC close by.

If you want to book online or contact them by email beforehand, you can check their website for any details. Or you can call them directly if you are already in the country.

The rates are reasonable. During my first stay, I had a single room (in the upper floor of the house) with attached bathroom and AC which at U$30 per night is already good value in that area, and there is free Wifi thrown in as well. It also comes with a free breakfast in the morning, prepared by Mohamed.

If you are only staying for a night or two, there is also a dorm option (there are 3 beds per room, one for ladies, another one for men) which is only fan-cooled although you can pay a higher rate and ask for the AC to be turned on but otherwise you pay only 1500LKR per person, per night. I tried this one in my second stay and it was great!

I ended up staying there for most of my stay in Colombo and even promised Mohamed that I will be coming back there to stay during my next visits!

Mihintale: The Cradle of Srilankan Buddhism

2011-05-31T17:55:00.079+05:00

I had to scramble out of bed early as I have earlier agreed to go to Mihintale at 8am. After the previous day’s scorching heat and my burned, or shall we say – baked feet, I heeded my driver’s suggestion to start off early to avoid the midday sun. It’s about 40-45 minutes ride by tuktuk to Mihintale from the town of Anuradhapura.

My driver was so concerned that I did not have breakfast yet that he gave me a lengthy sermon on the virtues of having a meal before starting my day! Hahaha so we stopped off at the Hotel Mihintale, a Ceylon Hotels Corporation-managed property, government-run in other words and as expected the impression I got was so-so. I mean, the staffs were nice and smiling but the manager or officer has that pompous air that I normally associate with local people who has a certain “status”. They are so big on titles around here, as if being a manager the whole world revolves around you. Oh well, enough said.

Mihintale is a smaller town than Anuradhapura and has a cooler climate due to its higher elevation. It is also not as spread out as Anuradhapura and can be easily navigated by foot once you arrive at the bottom of the stairs towards the temple complex. Mihintale is the heart of Srilankan Buddhism as this is the starting place and where Buddhism has been first introduced to Sri Lanka. Legend has it that in 247BC, King Tissa was hunting a stag in Mihintale Hill when he came across Mahinda, the son of the great Indian Buddhist emperor, Ashoka. He immediately converted to Buddhism and became a disciple of Mahinda.

One thing that can irritate the hell out of you though is the presence of “temple guides” who charges from 800 – 1000 LKR. May-June is an off-peak period for tourism in Sri Lanka and with places like Mihintale, you would normally encounter a lot of independent travelers (it’s not in the usual package trips itinerary) climbing up the temple steps, this time around all I saw were only local tourists who obviously will have no need for a “temple guide”.

I went as far as midway through the entrance steps trying to say NO frequently to the guide who latched on to me, but I felt bad (I’m such a sucker for sob stories!) when he told me that they have a 3-day rotation due to lack of tourists and I am the first tourist who came in that day! I was in a major guilt-trip so I let him tag along and I just asked him to take photos of me. He was a gem with the camera! Hahaha

After climbing through the first set of stairs, turn right and go up in a more narrow flight of stairs to go to the Kantaka Chetiya, one of the oldest dagobas built in Mihintale. I made a mistake of wanting to have my photo taken at one of the four corners of the dagoba base only to realize that ooopppssss, it’s the flower altar stands where well-preserved sculptures of animal figures are still intact and obviously holds a sacred role in the temple prayer ritual, all flower offerings will be placed in these stands.

Surrounding the dagoba complex are numerous cave monasteries where monks used to live, meditate, or even just to relax and cool themselves off from the midday sun. We went to one of these caves, you really have to be careful with the rocky steps as it can be a bit tricky more so probably when it rains as it becomes more slippery. Around it are overhangs and ledges where monks apparently used for contemplation or meditation. It looks directly to the huge white domed Mahaseya Dagoba and the surrounding countryside.

Within these caves are ancient inscriptions which were believed to be before the Pali era in Sri Lanka. We went through the rock crevasses and it is indeed quite cool and refreshing inside, so maybe the ancient monks did have a point in preferring to stay here.

After coming out from the dagoba complex, we went further up the hill. For those who want to eschew half of the stair climbing part can opt to go via the Old Road. On the right side of the Old Road just before reaching the ticket booth is the Sinha Pokuna, a small water tank (the water source is the Cobra Pond) which the monks allegedly used for bathing. When you place both of your hands in the lion paws, you will be directly under the water sprout coming from the lion’s mouth. Must be the first shower in Mihintale, eh??? Lol

Further up the steps are the ruins of the Monk’s Refectory and the nearby Relic House. Although only a few columns and stones are left of what was originally the monastic residential complex, the rice troughs must have been made of stronger stones coz they are still unharmed and in good condition.

Going up a few steps to the Relic House, the two stone tablets in the center of the house remains standing. These tablets were inscribed with the rules and regulations of the Relic House, it also serves as the “notice board” for the monastery’s inhabitants where their duties and responsibilities are spelled out, who will gather firewood, who will cook the food, when to have breakfast, etc. Not so different from the dormitories I stayed at while in university! Hahaha

Just up the last flight of stairs before you see the Ambasthale Dagoba is the ticket booth and the shoe rack where you can leave your slippers for a small tip. The dagoba itself is very small but very preserved and during my visit was being repainted (that’s why it’s glistening white!) in preparation for the Posun Poya which is normally held during the full moon night sometime in June.

In front of the dagoba is the stone sculpture of King Tissa, they say that this is where supposedly he had originally stood while meeting Mahinda.

We then climbed up the Aradhana Gala or the Meditation Rock. It is only a short climb but since I came over on a Sunday there were a lot of local visitors also and there is always a traffic going up and down. For safety purposes, you can hold on to the metal railings but it will mean that the person you will be meeting on the way will not have a railing to hold on to as it is only one-sided. This is the time when I said Thank You to my temple guide for helping me go up.

Before going to the top, we stopped over in a small rock opening and my guide told me that this is where monks used to sit and meditate. So I clambered up to the ledge, with shaking legs and praying Our Father and visions of my rock ledge cracking and me falling down and probably cracking my head in one of the rocks scattered at the base. I was trying to coax my legs to a lotus position but they stiffened up and disobeyed, I tried not to look down otherwise I’ll freak out and get crazy!

My guide seeing my scared face told me, “its okay madam, don’t get scared I will take care of you like I would my mother!” I was like whaaaatttttt? Do I look that old????? If I was not trembling that hard I would really have answered him back but that time I was unable to utter a single word.

I was debating with myself whether to still go ahead and climb up another flight of stairs to look at the huge Mahaseya Dagoba after that harrowing date with the meditation rock but my guide told me that we can just walk slowly and he offered to carry my water bottle for me. Thank you! My old creaking bones were really screaming and cursing me!

I thought my misery was over (thinking that this is my last climb for the day!) and when my guide told me we are going back now I was immediately walking fast only to realize that we are literally going down another rocky surface! Kaloka, pinahirapan talaga ako! We are going down via the Naga Pokuna, otherwise known as the Cobra Pond, called as such because of the five-headed cobra carving in the rock surface of the pool. The water from this pool used to go down to the Sinha Pokuna which is located just beneath it.

Looking down the rocky surface where I was supposed to climb down by grabbing whatever shrubs and grasses that I can hang on to, I asked the guide if there is another way and he said, “well madam you can jump down to the pool it is very deep you will not drown!” Yeah right, tell that to a non-swimmer like me! Hahahaha buang talaga!

The climb and walking around the temple complex only took us less than 3 hours but it felt like I spent the whole day in that place! Again, a big thanks to my guide for hand-holding me through the more tricky steps and for the running commentaries about each ruin and temple, for the fantastic photos also!

Mihintale is a pocket version of Anuradhapura but a must-see nonetheless.

Anuradhapura (part 3)

2011-05-30T17:47:00.029+05:00

After that sumptuous lunch we resumed our sightseeing tour once again, we passed by a very dilapidated metal gate and Mohamed stopped the tuktuk and I asked him where we are, and he pointed to a grassy area and said it’s the Royal Palace ruins. I cannot believe it! There was hardly anything left of it!

I immediately hied it off from there, Mohamed then told me he will bring me to somewhere quiet and peaceful and we ended up at the Elephant Pond or Eth Pokuna. Named as such not because it was used by bathing elephants but because of the size of the pond, well, it needs to be this huge if it’s supposed to be used by the 5,000 or so monks in the nearby Abhyagiri monastery.

While Mohamed waited near the pond, I ventured out towards the nearby ruins on the right side of the pond. These must be some residential dwellings for the Abhyagiri monks or their meditation halls but some of it were covered with overgrown grasses and seemed to be out of the list of the government list of treasures to be saved and kept in good condition.

However, when you go further you’ll find a huge “rice canoe” in the middle of the remains of the monk’s refectory. This is where monks used to line up to ladle out their portions of rice hence its name.

Afterwards, I hopped back on to the tuktuk and we stopped over at the ruins of Rathnaprasada. Although the main entrance pillars and the guardstones are still intact, it was sadly left untended except for a few cows grazing in the open field in the center of the ruins.

I am almost tired out from too much monastic ruins by now but I still have a few places to visit. I proceeded on to Mahasena’s Palace to have a look at its famous moonstone, there is nothing left of any particular importance in that place except for the moonstone I think. Normally, all Buddhist dwellings or temples will semi-circular moonstones at the entrance steps towards the temple.

I almost want to give it a miss coz I was already tired from too much walking around. I just couldn’t resist checking the 4^th century Samadhi Buddha which is located right in the “meditation forest”.

Then we moved on to the Abhyagiri Dagoba which was created sometime around the 1^st or 2^nd century BC although this has rebuilt a few times.

My feet are really burned off from too much walking -- barefoot!

There were still some more ruins and temples around the area but I begged off and told Mohamed that we should move on now to the last few places in the itinerary coz I am in desperate need of a cool fruit juice or a very cold bottle of Coke!

On our way out of the main temple ruins, we passed by the Kuttam Pokuna or the Twin Ponds. These two bathing tanks which were almost similar to each other although one is actually bigger than the other, were previously used by the Abhyagiri monks.

Our last stop was the beautiful Jetavanarama Dagoba with its 70 meters high massive dome which can be seen from afar. When it was built in the 3^rd century BC, it was considered as the third tallest monument in the world (at its original height of 100 meters). Next to it were monastic gedage ruins which used to house at least 3000 monks in its heydays.

This place reminded of the temple ruins in the Angkor temple complex in Cambodia although nothing much remained of the original structures except for some columns and railings.

Whew! Enough of my date with the past of Anuradhapura…….time to get back and have that ice-cold softdrink I have been dreaming about…and yes of course, to put up my complaining feet!

Anuradhapura (part 2)

2011-05-29T21:35:00.014+05:00

I woke up early coz I can hear the howling wind outside my window and I thought, oh no! it’s gonna rain today! But when I got out of my room for my 9:30am date with Mohamed, it was all bright and sunny.

The best thing about staying at Hotel Shalini is their driver, Mohamed. He is one of those tuktuk drivers who are honest, trustworthy and wouldn’t give you a sob story about his life so he can extract more money out of you. He speaks very good English, can act as tour guide as he is very knowledgeable about the area having worked in the tourism industry here for 20 years.

Isurumuniya Vihara

We started at the Isurumuniya Vihara as it is a bit far from the temple cluster in the northern part of the town. This temple is not covered in the Cultural Triangle ticket (5500LKR) or the Anuradhapura ticket (2775 LKR) so you have to pay a separate 200LKR at the entrance. When we went in, the guard told me that I’m the first Filipino visitor they’ve had. Joke! Maniwala naman ako sa kanya, sa dami ba naman ng Pinoy sa Sri Lanka I think there must have been at least a dozen who’ve been here already.

The rock temple dates back to the reign of Devanampiya Tissa (247-207BC). Although the roof of the temple is only about 200 years old and has been continually renovated, the stone flooring is still the original stones laid out in 207BC. There is also an attached square pool which must have been used by the monks during that time but is now used like a fish pond (I saw lots of fishes!).

Most of the original sculptures within the temple complex have now been moved to the adjacent little museum. There were rock tablets of the royal family, a rock throne chair, and the most beautiful, “the lovers” which dates back to 4-6 century AD.

Sri Maha Bodhi – Brazen Palace – Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba

Since I came over on a Saturday, most of the temples were full of local people especially the Sri Maha Bodhi. The tree is the oldest historically authenticated tree in the world and has been tended for the past 2000 years. There are a lot of huge bodhi trees around the temple complex but the most sacred is the one in the middle enclosed by a metal railing.

I was amazed at the number of people around the temple. There were like hundreds of them doing poja. All around the place are colorful prayer flags and offerings.

After coming out of Sri Maha Bodhi, I almost missed out the Brazen Palace. I had to backtrack again and check my map. Nothing much is left of the original structure of the palace. Only the 1600 columns are what remained of the bronze palace which used to have 9 structures accommodating 1000 monks and attendants.

On the way towards the Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba, there were a lot of cheeky monkeys who were posing right across the path. I started to click my camera and they certainly hammed for the photos! lol

From afar, the size and the sheer whiteness of the dagoba really command attention. It glistens in the noonday sun. I was sweating nonstop after my circle loop walk around the dagoba. What is striking though is the frieze of black elephants mural lining the outer wall of the dagoba. I don’t know what it means though but it really looks awesome!

Thuparama Dagoba

This is considered as the oldest dagoba in Sri Lanka built in the 3^rd century BC by Tissa and said to contain the right collarbone of the Buddha. Nothing disrespectful, but the remains of the Buddha seems to be scattered everywhere eh?

It was really too hot that time. I cannot stay that long coz it was scorching hot and the stone steps are just burning the hell out of my feet. I managed to circle the dagoba though and saw the remains of old pillars which were believed to support a conical roof.

I asked Mohamed if we can stop off somewhere for lunch. After all the walking around the temples (and in the hot sun!), I am really famished. He took me to a house where most of the tuktuk drivers have lunch while waiting for their guests to finish their sightseeing.

It was a delicious meal of traditional Srilankan dishes and only 360LKR for everything! I wiped off the whole thing but I also had to drink 2 bottles of Coke coz it was so spicy! Hahaha

Anuradhapura (part 1)

2011-05-29T21:34:00.014+05:00

After receiving such depressing news from VFS Lanka (promise, I will never process anything through that office again!), I decided to move on to Anuradhapura. If I have to wait for another 10 working days then I’d better make better use of my time by exploring the places that I haven’t visited yet. I was trying to choose between Anuradhapura and Haputale/Ella. I did not bring any cold weather clothing so I opted for the warmer place! Lol

From experience, I would rather go on an ICE (intercity express) train from Colombo than the regular and night mail trains coz they’re really extremely slooooowww! Good thing, after my self-debate in between mouthfuls of biryani chicken rice, when I checked my Lonely Planet train guide there is an ICE train going for 4:20pm! thank God for LP, what would I ever do without you?

When I got my ticket (there is a separate room/booking office for Intercity Express Reservation at the Colombo Fort station), I immediately called up Hotel Shalini to confirm my room booking. They gave me instructions on where to get off (must be at the “Old Town” station and not the “New Town”) and someone from the hotel will pick me up for FREE!.......Ahhh, the magic word for budget travelers! Hahahaha And since I’d be arriving around 8:30pm, having someone pick you up from the train station is such a bonus! No more haggling for tuktuk fares!

I was such in a foul mood the whole morning because of the delay in my visa processing but on the brighter side, at least I was able to travel around the places that I haven’t been to in Sri Lanka. Even if I do decide to resign from my current job, at least I have gone around the country! Not that I am sure I’m getting out but if I listen to my despondent self more often I’d definitely hand in my notice now! Hahahaha

Travelling via ICE is so comfortable! The seats are big enough and widely spaced (2 on each side) so there’s no overcrowding even on the 2^nd class compartment (and cheap also @ 380LKR). I was really surprised! Although I kept on badgering my seatmates if they can let me know once we arrive at Anuradhapura coz I’m supposed to alight at the Old Town station.

It was getting late and the train is also delayed. We finally arrived after 4 hours and 35 minutes. But everything went smoothly. Mohamed, the hotel tuktuk driver was outside waiting for me!

When I got in, the receptionist (who doubles us as a waiter also!) immediately took me to my very colorful room (floor is red, walls in green, and bathroom in orange) and asked me if I want something to eat. At 9:30pm, they made a delicious mixed fried noodles for me! Really good service! Fantastic start to my trip here.

I will definitely recommend staying at Hotel Shalini (you can call them at +94 25 2222425). If you are not too fussy about having an AC then you can opt for NonAC rooms which are only priced at 1500LKR. They keep it clean, especially the bathroom! No stinky smell, the floors are squeaky clean you can walk barefoot.

Now off to my room to finish the last 2 chapters of a Jeffrey Archer novel “The Eleventh Commandment”. Need also to tuck in early as I have an early date with the ruins of the mighty Anuradhapura Empire!

Exploring Kandy once again..

2011-05-28T18:18:00.014+05:00

I still have time left before my train ride back to Colombo so I went out and re-acquainted myself with the city of Kandy once again. Since my guesthouse is just a few meters away from the Tooth Relic temple, every day throngs of worshippers pass by the guesthouse bringing with them their colorful bouquets of flowers to offer at the temple.

I retraced my old steps back and went looking for the little fountain that I visited when I first came here to watch the Esala Perahera, almost 7 years ago and there it was, still as beautiful as ever.

The city which is founded in the 14^th century is considered a UNESCO Heritage Site. Kandy is the capital of the last Sinhalese kingdom stretching from the reign of Vimala Dharma Suriya I in 1592 until Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe in 1815 before British troops took over. Until now, it is still the religious capital of Srilankan Buddhists especially with the presence of the Sacred Tooth Relic Temple.

I was in need of a blessing (to expedite my visa!), I went searching for a church and ended up at the end of the block from my fountain. St. Paul’s Church originally served as a garrison church for British troops stationed in the Hill Country, hence all around the church interior walls were burial plaques of these British offices and their families. Construction of St. Paul's Church began in 1843, completed in 1848, and enlarged in 1878 and 1928. The church was barely open and it was really dark inside. I tried to get into a pew at the back area but they put barriers so I went to the altar area and was so amazed at the designs that I started clicking away with my camera.

Then a 40-ish lady came over and scolded me that I need permission to take photos (okay, I’m fine with that) and to leave a donation at the box near the entrance (hello? I know we pay tithes in the olden dinosaur ages but to force me to pay a donation?). She made that remark in a very forbidding face. Oh God! The Catholics here in Kandy are definitely made in a different mold that back at home where the most honest and hospitable old ladies can be found tending to chores voluntarily in the local parish. I did not even finish my usual Our Father- 3 Hail Mary - Glory Be.

After that un-Christian brush of hospitality, I went to look for the devales, mainly the 14^th-century Natha Devale which is close to the Sacred Tooth Relic Temple. The reason why I had to make a U-turn and go back to my room to change my short skirt to a long trousers, my outfit is not fit for temple attendance. Lol

Some photos around Kandy and then it’s time to go…..

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage

2011-05-28T18:01:00.013+05:00

This is my 4^th visit to Kandy and I promised myself that although my main reason for coming here was to meet up with an old friend, I will also make sure that I get the chance to visit the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. I used to envy friends who have visited the place even on their first trip to Sri Lanka and for me who has been visiting this country for the nth time to always miss out on that place is such a disgrace!

After meeting Mr. Thenn during breakfast and promising to visit him after my trip to the orphanage I walked over to the bus station to search for bus # 662 bound for Kegalle. The LP guide spelled it wrongly, you are supposed to drop off at the Karudopone Junction (not Karandunpona) and the ride is not 1 hour but an hour and 15 minutes and the fare is 43 LKR. From the junction, it’s easy to catch bus #681 (fare to the gate is 12 LKR) bound for Rambukkana coz they always pass by every minute I think. After 10 minutes, you can stop at the orphanage gate.

Entrance for foreign adults is 2000 LKR and child is 1000 LKR. A bit steep but well, they have to employ a lot of people to take care of these elephants. I arrived right on time. I departed Kandy at 11:20am and was at the gate by 12:45pm. I had 15 minutes to spare before the 1pm bottle feeding time. There were a lot of tourists milling around taking photos.

For 250LKR (you pay at the ticket booth), you can bottle feed the elephants. There were only 2 elephants that time and tourists were taking turns feeding them. Too commercial, eh?

After that was a lull of about 30minutes till bathing time at 2pm. You have to come out of the Elephant Orphanage and cross the street, pass through the numerous souvenir shops lining the alley towards the river. Make sure that you have your ticket with you coz there is a checkpoint before going towards the river and the guard checks each person’s ticket.

Here's the orphanage schedule for reference;

Feeding time: 9:15am / 1:15pm / 4pm

Bathing Time: 10am / 2pm / 5pm

The river was quiet and calm, and then the thundering sound of running elephants ensued, it was such a glorious sight! They all ran towards the river and started splashing water. The baby elephants were tenderly looked after by the adults. I just kept on looking at them with awe. Amazing!

The trip is really worth it! A memory to treasure forever.

Slow train to Kandy

2011-05-26T21:43:00.007+05:00

After clearing up my visa application at VFS, I called up my old friend, Mr. Thenn (I shortened his name while we were working in Six Senses Laamu coz he has a typical Srilankan name which is 6 names combined, the only ones I can remember are Lal Jayampathy Bandara Thennakoon, quite a mouthful! Lol) who lives in Kandy and told him I’ll be visiting him and his family.

I was supposed to take the 3:30pm train but arrived too late so I took the next one at 4:35pm. Whoa! It’s a slow train and although they only have 2^nd (190LKR) and 3^rd class compartments, they were quite comfortable enough but my God, it’s really SLOW! You see, on an ICE (Intercity Express) train you’ll arrive in Kandy in less than 3 hours but with the slow train we arrived after 4 hours and 10 minutes! By the time I got into Kandy it was almost 9pm already. A good Samaritan (who conveniently had a car & driver waiting for him) offered to drop me off at my hotel. This is what I like about Kandyans, they are so hospitable!

After checking my LP book, I decided to choose Olde Empire Hotel despite the not so positive review, coz its cheaper and centrally located so it will fit my budgetary constraints. Olde Empire Hotel despite the posh name is actually a budget guesthouse but with a historical value. Before its conversion to a guesthouse, it used to be a coffee factory over 110 years ago hence the faded colonial era charm that you can still find in its hallways.

The rooms though are depressing, painted all white and boxy. Well, what would you expect of 990 LKR per night? Hahaha But my God, don’t ever stay from middle to back area rooms coz the stink coming from the toilets are so horrible! Only the upstairs veranda managed to salvage the place though with its astounding view of the lake and the incoming traffic of temple goers on their way to the Dalada Maligawa.

After the initial discomfort (old age can definitely soften oneself and then you start looking for luxurious digs all the time!), I got my groove back and was able to sleep soundly in my first night back in Kandy.

Another day in Colombo

2011-05-23T23:36:00.012+05:00

Colombo, Sri Lanka

I was bleary-eyed and almost tripping all over myself when I came out from the arrivals area at the Bandaranaike Airport, I just want to get to the hotel and sleeeeeep….the colorful lanterns hanging around the airport did not even rouse me up. These are leftovers I think from last week’s Vesak festival.

Staying at the Pearl

I called and booked my accommodation at Pearl City Hotel a day before my departure from the Maldives. As demand is higher than supply, Colombo hotels these days are always full and since I am arriving early morning I thought it’s better to have everything arranged beforehand even the airport pick-up. The rooms were just so-so and the price has really hiked up, from last year’s 30-35usd per night to 56usd! Almost 100% increase in less than a year, but no renovations or upgrading of facilities. Whaaaaat????

Okay, at least the wifi is free the whole day unlike the 5-star hotels which charges 18usd for a full day wifi connection. Malaysia is way way cheaper now than Colombo but when it comes to service and facilities it’s still a long way to go.

Dining out at Urban Kitchen

A friend has recommended this place to me a while back but since I was always coming over on official work I am always short on time to go looking for this place. This time around I searched the address through the web and cross-checked with the hotel reception just to be sure.

Urban Kitchen

Behind Arpico Supercenter

Haipa corner, Colombo 02

The food was superb! I met up with a friend and when we got there, the place was quiet and it seems unoccupied but when lunchtime came the place was really full and buzzing with diners. It is also affordable. I ordered Shredded Crispy (LKR 590) + Steamed Rice (LKR 100) + Special Homemade Iced Tea (LKR 170). My friend ordered Asian Greens (LKR 360) and we were so full afterwards that I needed a cup of Green Tea to wash it off!

Take note, to all pork lovers like me, the restaurant is Halal…..hahahaha….my eyes popped out when I saw it. I was so looking forward to a plate of pork chop! Lol

Another expensive day spent in Colombo, with its smog and traffic. I couldn’t wait to go out and visit Kandy!

Kayaking at Bandos Island Resort

2011-04-09T12:42:00.022+05:00

I do love the water, being on a boat, or going to the beach…….being near the water always calms me….but then on the other hand, I was never a fan of watersports. Stems from my lack of swimming skills hence I generally veto any suggestions of going diving, parasailing, or windsurfing. Anything that requires at least a modicum of swimming talent is a no-no for me! Hahaha

Last weekend, I was running out of ideas on how to entertain my 10-year old niece. Male is so small that we have visited all the major bookshops already (it’s a weekly ritual for us to buy something from the bookstore). So I thought why not go to a resort?

It’s a refreshing change to see Bandos Island Resort during daytime, as I always go there at night to dance or drink at the bar only. We have the full day to ourselves so I let my niece choose what activities she wants to do.

She opted for the Watersports Centre…..and chose, kayaking!

After donning the life jacket and informing the attendant that “This is my first time to go on a kayak!”, and he better look all the time lest I get swept away……we went and got on the kayak. It was hilarious for me as I don’t know which way to paddle my oar in or out, and on top of it, we were moving too fast and my niece was shouting at the top of her lungs “Tita, we are being swept away! We are going over the reef!”.

I did start to panic a bit, but one thing I learned about being in the water…..it’s a place where panic means trouble!

I was able to get the hang of it after a while but my niece got tired of it after 10 minutes and opted to pester the attendant to lend her a mask coz she wants to go snorkeling. I still have my sunburned shoulders to show for my 1-hour of blissful kayaking back & forth. I did not know it could be this fun! Pag-uli ko sa amo, magpahimo ako nan baroto sa Tangyad dakan magbugsay-bugsay ako sa dagat! Hahahaha

Okay, next visit…..will try to dive???? Hahahaha dive underwater or take a dive in the bar? Most likely the latter…..

CarCanMadCarLan

2011-03-13T10:56:00.009+05:00

CARCANMADCARLAN – is the acronym for the five towns within the first district of Surigao del Sur. It stands for Carrascal – Cantilan – Madrid – Carmen – Lanuza.

Coming from Surigao City, you can either take a Bachelor bus (for 160 pesos) or a passenger van (for 175 – 180 pesos) for the roughly 3 hour trip through one of the most scenic journeys in the Philippines, a trip punctuated with mountain ranges, small cascading waterfalls, white sand beaches, and some visible verdant green tiny islands dotting the sea nearby.

If not for the bumpy ride (it can be a bit rough riding from the Norte-Sur boundary for the last 1 hour of the trip) which will definitely make your bum scream in defiance!.......I would gladly go back & forth to Surigao City if only to get a regular dose of the fantastic landscape but alas, the bum does hurt a bit….lol

You can find anything you wish for --- rice paddies dotting the landscape between Cantilan and Madrid, mountains, swamps, and rivers between Carrascal and Cantilan, or the giant waves that surfers dream about (but I cringe upon! Hahaha) in Lanuza, or the waterfalls hidden inside the far flung barrios of Madrid and Carmen. If you are after a glorious suntan, you can head on to the nearby white sand-ringed islands of Cantilan.

Although there is a dearth of restaurants serving quality food, one can always opt for a seafood diet and head on to the floating restaurant at Bon-ot, Carrascal. You can select the seafood you want (as in, you choose the fish, squid, prawns, etc) and have it cooked the way you like it. For locals like me, we always have the SUTUKIL --- Sugba (grilled), Tuya (soup), Kilaw (raw salad). We are so fond of acronyms eh? Lol

The choices of accommodation are a bit limited though and is concentrated more in the town of Cantilan. You can go to Solar Lodge which is located near the San Pedro beachfront area. Or the nearby Zyphora Inn which also has a Friday night disco every week if you are the type who cannot go without the bright lights and fast music.

But the most precious sight in my hometown are the welcoming smiles……people are so friendly and always have a ready smile to welcome any newcomer to our hometown.

Welcome to CCMCL……

Surigao City

2011-03-07T16:13:00.008+05:00

I was able to get a little time off from work as our hotel opening has been delayed further so I immediately booked a flight back home last February. Home for me is a little town called Madrid, a tiny municipality in the province of Surigao del Sur.

It is still a long way to go before I can arrive at my final destination. First, I have to pass through Surigao City --- aptly called “the gateway to Mindanao” as it is located on the northeastern tip of the island of Mindanao.

The city of Surigao has started to really metamorphose into a more bustling place with modern conveniences like daily flights from Manila or Cebu and twice daily boats from Cebu. Lo and behold! There is a Jollibee branch right smack in the middle of San Nicolas Street, just in front of my dear old alma mater! Even Greenwich Pizza and Chowking! Wow, bigatin na talaga kami! hahaha

If you are coming from Cebu City, you can either take one of the boats from Cokaliong Shipping Lines (daily at 7pm, except Sundays) or Cebu Ferries (owned by Aboitiz Shipping Lines) which departs Cebu an hour later than Cokaliong but arrives faster! Another option gaining popularity among local travelers is the entry of budget airlines like Cebu Pacific and Airphil Express. If you purchase in advance, you can even get rates cheaper than the fares offered by the shipping lines. But make sure though that you travel light otherwise the excess baggage rate is around 120-150 pesos per kilogram!

From Manila, there are twice-weekly trips via Superferry and Sulpicio Lines. But yet again, if you don’t have heavy luggages (only 15kgs baggage allowance on domestic flights unless you fly via Philippine Airlines) and can purchase the tickets in advance, then you can take the flights from the budget airlines.

From other parts of Mindanao, there are direct buses from Davao, Butuan, and Cagayan de Oro to and fro the city.

The city itself doesn’t have much to offer. You can easily circumnavigate the place by asking the tricycle driver to tour you around in under 2 hours. But it is the entry point to the surfing capital of Siargao (although Cebu Pacific offers direct flights now to Siargao from Cebu) with its perfect waves, astounding stalactite caves and white sand beaches.

For me, Surigao City used to be my residence for the last 2 years of my high school life (I studied my 3^rd & 4^th year at the then-San Nicolas College now St. Paul University Surigao). I still visit the city regularly every time I’m home for my holidays to catch up with old school friends. Or kneel and pray at the Cathedral where I used to hear mass every day (di ko ma-imagine inaraw-araw ko sya noon!) after school.

It also means that if I’m in Surigao City already, I am only just 3 hours away from my ‘home’.

Shopping with your Parents

2011-03-06T10:18:00.011+05:00

Cebu City, Philippines

When I was a teenager, eons ago that was lol!, I used to cringe being seen going to a shopping center or a mall with my parents. I remember going with my father to the most trendy shop in Surigao City to pick up a dress for my JS Prom when I was in my 3rd year in high school. I was so embarrassed but going out and being pretty at the prom won out!

As I grow older, I started hanging out with my parents and their friends more and more....I get updated on all the latest chikas in our town, and I would like to think, I became more grounded and more down to earth because of them. The wisdom of the older generation rubbing off on me...

When I went home for my holiday last February, we all met up at my house in Cebu and I went shopping with my parents. I had fun!

As much as I love going to Ayala Center (maybe when I'm alone and have the time to browse around), my parents preferred to go to SM City because it has more affordable shops (especially at the department store area where you can get more cheaper brands) and of course, they have a big Toy Kingdom outlet....easier to pick gifts for the grandchildren! hehehe I like it there also coz they stock up on brands like Mango (at the North Wing).

My mother and I can just go for a whole day especially if it involves shoes and clothes! hahaha puwede talaga kaming maglakad the whole day! But my father??? hahahaha naghanap ng matulugan, he eventually found a very comfy sleeping nook at the Furniture section! Buti walang nagpa-alis sa kanya!

I really wished I had more time to shop and hang out with my parents in Cebu but the few moments we've had were definitely great!

Flooding

2011-02-13T13:15:00.007+05:00

During our trip to Dambulla last month, the whole country especially the central & northern regions were inundated with nonstop rains which caused a lot of flooding in lowland areas.

We were lucky that when we got there, the rains had let up and the sun is shining once again. But I got firsthand view of the surging floodwaters when we pass by the Kandalama tank on our way back to Colombo.

The driver told me that a family of 3 (parents plus 1 young child) were caught in the flood just a week passed and died.

I took photos while we were passing through. We had to go through a side road which is lower than the water tank level (I can just imagine how the surge could have swept away the motorbike the family was in!) as the new bridge being constructed was still not completed.

I said a little prayer to the family who perished and to all the victims of last month's flooding in Sri Lanka. We really have to take care of our environment because Nature's retribution can be fierce and deadly.

A date with Ayurveda and shopping

2011-02-07T12:54:00.010+05:00

The Sanctuary Spa, Unawatuna

Got up in the morning with a smile on my face……have a date with Sanctuary Spa!

Just before Thaproban restaurant (or on your way towards the temple & pagoda), you will pass by a small marker pointing towards a small alley (as in tiny alley) which opens up into a small garden and the spa reception. I love the ethnic decors in the reception....me character talaga!

The day before we already booked for our Ayurveda treatments here. I chose the 90 minutes package of Herbal steam bath + massage (body + neck) for only LKR 2,400. It’s already a good deal although there were some cheaper Ayurveda Spas strewn about the town but this one looks good enough.

It’s just a small spa operation, just 2 open-air cabanas with 2 treatment beds each (maybe for couple massages!). But the special characteristic that sets it apart are the male therapists! They ONLY have male therapists in the place. Some ladies might not be comfortable with that, but they were very circumspect and respectful so I did not feel uncomfortable at all, not even once!

I am not really wow about Ayurveda massage, I still prefer either a Thai (or Khmer which is a bit similar) or Balinese massage. I ended up slick with too much body oil and it’s not deep tissue enough that I did not feel that revived after my massage. Although I love the herbal steam bath! Hahahaha yung parang niluluto ka sa loob ng kuyon! Lol

For only $22, it was good enough for me though but can still be improved. Hmmm, when will be my next visit to Kandy??? I really want to go back again to that Ayurveda Spa we went to before…..

Anyways, coming out from the Spa is even more exciting…..bargain shopping awaits! The sidewalk towards our guesthouse is full of shops selling souvenir items….shopping mecca! If the massage had not revived me, the sight of colorful sarongs hanging in these shops totally rejuvenated me! Lol

Its my birthday today!!!

2011-02-06T15:46:00.008+05:00

Happy birthday to me!!!!!

I decided not to splurge on my birthday, no going out to nearby resorts or flying out to other countries either! Earlier, I was planning to go to Egypt and Jordan for my birthday and even booked a ticket already for Jan 29th till Feb 10th. Good thing though my plans changed, look at what is happening in Egypt now!

Someone up there is really looking after me.....

And so today I ended up cooking nonstop in the morning as I was teased by my officemates to give a Filipino cuisine lunch! Diosme naman, lahat na ipagawa nyo hwag lang ang pagluluto! But anyhow, I have to do what I have to do. I couldn't let them think that our food is not tasty so I cooked pancit palabok + chopsuey + adobong manok, and Janeth cooked jumbo prawns in butter.

O ayan, ang ready-made palabok sauce ko.....thank you to Mama Sita's! hahahaha

I normally don't celebrate my birthdays in the office. I am a very shy person. Di ko kinakaya if everyone will greet me the whole day kaya most often I go somewhere. But I'm glad I stayed and had it here in Male, with friends and colleagues.

They told me the food is delicious daw, especially the kids (children of my officemates). I explained to them why there has to be noodles --- accdg to Pinoy traditions, every auspicious occasions like birthdays and new year's eve, there has to be noodles to signify Long Life.

Another year added.....buti na lang walang nagdala ng cake with matching candles! Di ko na talaga yun kayanin! hahahaha

The Golden sands of Unawatuna

2011-02-05T15:13:00.024+05:00

After our brief stop at Hikkaduwa I was half expecting to find a similar beach scene, near to Galle Road and I bit too hemmed in with civilization, too busy and full of people and pedestrians.

Unawatuna is just a small town about 20 minutes from Galle but what makes it special is that it’s tucked away from the bustle of the heavily-trafficked Galle Road with a small sign next to a small road indicating that you have to turn this way to go into the beach proper of Unawatuna.

We stayed at the Shangri-la Guesthouse (yes, as in super infringement of IP rights sya! Hahaha) which is a few minutes walk away from the beach. I was a bit disappointed from not being ensconced right in the beach but then I later realized that its the distance away from the beach noise which is its best selling point! God! Can you just imagine, trying to sleep after a day in the sun and night spent boozing around but you can’t sleep a wink coz all your neighbors and their friends are still out there partying and loud music are still blaring from all the bars and restaurants around the beach????

They have guest rooms at the main house and a few private cabanas strewn around the garden. I think I’m really getting older coz I am now very OC about having my own private room as compared to my previous room-sharing guesthouse experience during my younger backpacking days.

The cabanas were quite clean and spacious. It has a queen-sized bed with a mosquito net hanging over it, fan-cooled, and has indoor bathroom (there’s one cabana which has an outdoor toilet pero baka naman masilipan ako! Hahaha) with a small glass pane on the roof para siguro at night you can see the stars while you do what you do in the toilet! Ano yun, titingala ka habang naka-upo? Lol

My stomach is still digesting the huge breakfast I had at Taprobane - Cinnamon Garden Hotel (they have buffet breakfast for only 1785+++ LKR) so I skipped lunch and headed out immediately to the beach.

Unawatuna beach scene reminded me of Kuta beach in Bali, it was crowded with lounging sun worshippers, there were a couple of surfers (although there’s really no waves in the vicinity – maybe they were just body boarding???), and open air restaurants and cafes strung around the half-moon shaped beach. You also have a lot of souvenir vendors plying their trade. It adds up to a very colorful and energetic beach life!

It was slightly cloudy with some off-and-on drizzling throughout the afternoon but it’s definitely an improvement from the nonstop rains the previous weeks. I don’t think I’d get my suntan in this weather though!

Just before sunset, we went off walking towards the end of the beach. Once you get inside the gated temple, you walk up a flight of stairs and then you’ll see the Peace Pagoda.

But once you get passed the Pagoda, a breathtaking view awaits you! As in really, WOW! The perfect vantage point to put your feet up and watch the sunset. Awesome! I love the sound of waves crashing into the boulders and going back into the sea…..

Sadly though, we couldn’t get our perfect sunset…..the sun was covered up by dark clouds…..oh well, hopefully next time!

After stopping over at Sanctuary Spa for a date with Ayurveda massage the following day, we went back to our guesthouse. Need to freshen up a bit before dinner. We went to Thaproban restaurant (they also have accommodation yata) for dinner. I know I was in my element, yakking nonstop about nonsensical things to my host! Hahaha don’t you just love unhurried dinners like that? You take your time in between subo and nonstop chatting! The poor guy’s ears must have blistered though…..lol

We went to the beach for a few drinks before we head on for more serious drinking and dancing. The beach was alive with lights. Tables and chairs in the sand, gentle waves crashing in while sipping Lion beer…..whatta life they have here! lol

I must have enjoyed the place too much ( I did not drink that much, hello??) but for the life of me I just couldn’t remember what the name of the pub that we went to afterwards. It was a great place, full of people, and at one point they had a fire dance right in front of us although the fire crackers did scare me a bit. Ayoko talaga ng mga paputok na yan no!

I don’t know kung sino ang minalas (baka ako pala yun! Hahaha) but when we stepped on the dance floor, the music stopped coz apparently there’s a curfew daw! Ang kuleeettt!!! Someone said that maybe di daw nabigyan ng tong ang lespu kaya me curfew! Hahaha parang Pinas pala ito!

So we ended up going back to the beachfront to look for a place that’s still open and ended up at the Tartaruga bar & restaurant (or was it the nearby one?).

Great place. Great company. What more could I ask for?

Hikkaduwa

2011-01-30T18:39:00.009+05:00

Two hours into our drive from Colombo, we veered off Galle Road and stopped at a roadside café. Well, I thought it was just a little café that you stop to cut off an otherwise long drive but when we went further inside, it opened into the beach area.

It was a still a bit early for the sun worshippers to be out topping their tans in the loungers but a few die hard ones were already walking by the beach. The waves are too rough for average swimmers, surfing, diving and now kitesurfing are the most popular activities here as you can see from the numerous dive centers around the area offering PADI certified courses.

This is backpacker central --- a place where all backpackers, surfers, party-goers converge and hang out. I heard that they normally have great beach parties (promise, I’ll come again next time!) here all the time.

We decided to plonk ourselves at the Top Secret Beach restaurant as it has a fantastic view of the beach and has this funky Arabian-style lounge area complete with multi-colored throw pillows! Lol Eyelovitttt!!!

Nothing much to see in this town except for the beach area, the town itself is just strung around the Colombo-Galle Road and can be so congested with vehicle traffic that in most days you would want to give it a miss! But what’s so great about the place is that, you have civilization on the other side and just 1 meter ahead you are in beach heaven!

Next destination – Unawatuna beach.

Galle - The Queen City of the South

2011-01-29T11:02:00.049+05:00

I really have to thank my host for being so kind to show me around the south, after the weekend at Unawatuna I don’t want to leave the area yet without visiting one of my “must see” places --- Galle.

Founded in the early 16^th century by the Portuguese which were later on driven away by the Dutch during the mid 1600s, the city is a perfect example of a European colonial enclave within a South Asian locale. Also declared a World Heritage City by UNESCO, Galle remains to be a working city, still alive with residents going about their daily life side by side the horde of tourists clicking pictures everywhere.

From the Portuguese to the Dutch and later on the British colonizers, the heavily fortified city remains intact through the centuries (even the 2006 tsunami which cut a deadly swathe in the southern coast of Sri Lanka did not leave much damage on the Fort area, although the outer ‘new’ towns were heavily devastated). I feel as if these visitors managed to add up to the architectural marvels around the city, you have a Dutch Reformed Church replacing an old Portuguese church and just nearby you can see the gleaming white façade of the Meeran Jumma Masjid which was originally built in the early 1700s but later rebuilt in 1904. Maybe because of the heavy European Christian influences, the mosque resembles that of a church.

Walking around the city is the best way to discover its beauty. We started by parking the car near the The Fort Hotel Gallery and then going on foot towards the southern part of the fort walls. First stop was of course the Lighthouse. Galle, being a very popular seaport even in the olden days of the Ceylon era is a very important maritime stop for commercial vessels plying the Indian Ocean and the Lighthouse served as a beacon for seafarers as early as 1848 although it was burnt down in 1936 and rebuilt in 1940. It is the best place to start your walk around the walls. The view of the Indian Ocean from the top of the walls is breathtakingly amazing!

After about an hour of walking around the fortress walls, my host guided me towards the popular Pedlar's Inn Cafe for our late brunch. It's a very artsy place, a renovated old colonial house which has a restaurant/cafe, jewelry and souvenir shop inside. I really loved the decors inside, especially the table settings and the colorful mix of cushions on the sofas. Parang I want to copy this at home also!

Before departing, we stopped at this church. It's a Sunday, and the Catholic in me, needs to at least visit a place of worship and kneel and say my prayers (although I don't understand the German notice at the entrance, so I took a photo na lang instead!). Oh how I would love to hear mass in this church, its so solemn inside and looks so old. I just love old churches!

I wanted to stay longer and explore the city more. I felt as if I have not fully discovered the cultural gems that Galle has to offer. I was dragging my feet and kept on looking back at all the old houses, museums, and galleries that we pass by.

Sadly, we had to go back to Colombo. A week of site visits and supplier meetings awaits me…..till the next trip again.

Climbing the Sigiriya Rock Fortress

2011-01-27T11:46:00.033+05:00

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

It was Poya Day when we left Colombo (hence the lack of vehicle traffic) last 19^th January, the streets were so quiet and we managed to arrive in just 4hrs to Dambulla and just a few minutes more we were already in Sigiriya Village Hotel.

I really got excited. It was just 3pm when we finished lunch. I called up our driver (oh, the poor guy! I forgot to tell him that I want to go beforehand and he had already retired in his room!) and off we went!

On the way to the rock, we passed by a small creek and I couldn’t resist taking a photo of this mahout bathing his elephant in the water.

The Sigiriya Rock Fortress had been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982. Rising out from the jungle, The Rock is like a beacon for travelers from afar. Local legend has it that King Kassapa (AD 477 – 495, making this at least almost 1600 years old) sought a place where he can fortify himself after overthrowing and murdering his own father and usurping the throne from the rightful heir.

According to the more pragmatic archaeologists though, this rock was used as a Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist monastery built even centuries before the time of King Kassapa. Monks were supposedly using this as a mountain monastery as early as 3^rd century BC and by 10^th century AD it had become a very popular hermitage place.

My very helpful driver, Ishantha, guided me to the ticket booth which is near the museum area and right across the entrance gate. The single entry ticket only for Sigiriya Rock is U$25.00, or you may purchase the Cultural Triangle ticket for U$55.00 if you have plans of visiting the other ancient capitals like Anuradhapura-Polonnaruwa-Ritigala-Nalanda-Kandy. I decided to just take the single entry ticket as I don’t know yet when I will be able to visit the other sites.

The minute you alight from your vehicle till the time that you are inside the rock complex, there will be a multitude of men who will latch on to you and “help” you. These helpful guides will then charge 1000LKR for their help. So if you don’t have extra money with you, you can tell them nicely that you don’t need any assistance.

On the palace grounds (or monastery, whichever tale you chose to believe), there are beautifully-laid out water gardens which is still in use till this day. These must have doubled up as water reservoirs during those days thousand years ago. The further you go, you’ll chance upon cave boulders and terraced gardens all the way up.

According to one of the “helpful” guys who tried to latch on to me, there are about 1,200 steps to the top of the Rock. Ouch! It was okay at the base, as you trudge on through the stone steps but when you start going up the rock, don’t look down if you have fear of heights!

Late afternoon is indeed the best time to go up, the sun is almost setting down and you get a cool breeze fanning your face while you go up the rickety steps. It was such a fascinating and picturesque climb, you go through rock hewn passages and pass by small caves.

I first went for the colorful frescoes of beautiful women adorning the rock face, the entrance was on the other side of the rock wall. There were only a few left but it was really well-preserved. They have covered it with tarpaulin and all visitors are prohibited from using flash when taking photos.

Then you pass by the Mirror Wall, they said it was originally polished so the king can see himself while walking along. I did walk alongside the wall but alas, either it was not polished this time or it’s just not shining but I definitely did not see myself on it! Lol

And so I arrived at the Lion’s Gate --- named as such because at the entrance, you will go through two giant Lion’s paws guarding both sides of the entrance gate. This is the base for the ascent to the top of the rock. The rock rises 370m (1,214ft) above sea level, not really much though, but it can be scary as it is a sheer drop on all sides!

The railings were just attached to the rock surface and I keep on telling myself, “Yvonne, there are like hundreds of people climbing here every single day!” just to make sure I can prod myself to go up further. One time I glanced down (my mistake!) and my breath just swooshed out!

But the view at the rock summit is amazing! Well worth the tiring climb and the even more tiring walk down. There were still well-preserved palace ruins, a water reservoir which looks like a huge swimming pool (maybe they used this as a swimming pool back then also eh?).

It took me about two hours for my entire Sigiriya Rock experience. I could have stayed longer but the place also is almost closing up and I don’t want to be left all alone with all the ghost of the past for company! Hahaha

The exit is on another side, numerous souvenir stalls like these are scattered around the parking area.

New Year, New Beginnings....

2011-01-09T15:19:00.013+05:00

My mother used to always admonish us kids not to overspend during New Year’s Eve (and the day after!) as it would mean a year-long nonstop spending spree and we will be without money the whole year round! I always get scared of her pronouncements and would always obey her and would stay at home most of the times so as not to spend a single centavo.

This New Year 2011, I was thinking of just staying at my apartment in Male and just wallow in my misery alone. All the rooms in the resorts also were fully booked (in any case, we couldn’t afford the exorbitant rates also --- who wants to pay a discounted rate of 500usd for a night plus the gala NY dinner of 135usd!!! Obviously, not me! Hahaha) so I found myself alternately having my favorite Mojito drink at Aqua – the rooftop restaurant, and a cup of Cappuccino at the lobby coffee shop of Traders Hotel Maldives.

Good thing, it was Kuya Jun’s birthday (one of my closest friends in Maldives) so we decided to have dinner at Sea House Restaurant instead. Best decision we’ve done! The food from the buffet was great! I especially loved the very moist Black Forest cake, I think I wiped off at least ¼ of the entire cake! So now, no asking why I am moon-faced!!! Hahahaha

It was a fun dinner! I hope to have more dinners in Male like this one. We had a karaoke session, with Peachy the bravest amongst all of us --- sya lang me voice at nakayang kumanta in front of the whole crowd! I contented myself to singing alongside the band (I loved them! They were singing my favorite old songs!).

We got an invite from the Bandos gang to join them for the New Year’s countdown and boy, what a fantastic night it was! The countdown to 01-01-2011 was really a skin-to-skin affair, full of stomping revelers on the stage, shouting nonstop and joining DJ Benray in counting the minutes…the seconds…..

I couldn’t ask for a better way to greet the New Year! And to top it all off…..everything was complimentary! My mother will be happy to know that……although, it made me think…..will I be getting freebies the whole year round????? Lol

Happy New Year 2011 everyone!!!

Another Christmas in paradise...

2010-12-30T15:51:00.044+05:00

North Ari Atoll, Maldives

Another Christmas holiday spent in the Maldives. The past few years, I’ve been spending most of my Christmasses here in the Maldives, that’s the drawback of working in the hotel industry, public holidays are always peak times which normally means --- no holiday for you!

The good thing though, since I am with a pre-opening hotel I was able to get out and spend my Christmas holiday at Bathala Island Resort. It was a perfect 3 day weekend!

We woke up early on the 24th and was running towards the jetty to take the airport ferry, our check-in was supposed to be at 5:15am! I was still in a semi-dreaming mode (its even difficult to rouse me out of bed at 8am, how much more at 4:30am!) and managed to get to the airport just in time --- only to be told that our names were not in the passenger list! As in hello???

All the other transfers for the day are full so we went back to Male dejectedly. I slept off the whole morning and was thinking, if worst comes to worse, we will just go to nearby Bandos Resort (although we will have to pay!). I think Santa is very nice to me, I might have been good the whole year --- we were told that boss has arranged for the speedboat to pick us up from Male! Thank you very much, indeed!

It was such a perfect day! The sun was blindingly shining the whole day, the water was so calm that the usual 1.5hrs ride took only less than an hour. I just slept through it though...

The crystal clear water at the jetty looked so inviting......you can even see the tiny fishes swimming around the corals!

The sun was setting in when we arrived at the island......I am still amazed at how beautiful Maldivian sunsets can be. I took photos (with my new Canon SX30 IS --- my Christmas gift to myself!!) in different areas of the island and the colors also varies, on one side it was yellowish....on the other side, it was an explosion of magenta, fuchsia, orange....

Even before we can even check into our room, we passed by the bar area for a little cocktail....salamatirs gajud boss for the complimentary stay. Kalami gajud magpahi-inom basta dili kun binayran! hahaha

I was not really expecting much for the Christmas Eve dinner but I was really surprised at their buffet display, they have really exerted a lot of effort to make it look great! My other officemates were also there (came a day earlier than me!) so we had one long table during dinner.

And my favorite......lechon de leche! This is what I miss spending Christmas away from home, my mother would usually order a whole roasted pig for Christmas Eve dinner with the left-overs taken along with us for our lunch at the beach house in Consuelo the following day. Really missing it......haaay!

While having dinner I can already hear the loud disco music emanating from the bar, as if telling us to shake off our slippers/shoes and dance barefoot on the sand floor! Of course, we danced the whole night away.....haha

What a lovely day! The sky is clear, the water is calm....what more can I ask for Christmas Day???

Need to send out my Christmas messages to family and friends first before anything else...

Our old creaky bones were aching from too much exertion the other night hence we woke quite late on Christmas Day, was too late for breakfast so we just went to the bar and had cappuccino, I still need to finish the novel I was reading (my first from Stephen Frey, I did not know he writes good thrillers! I am now a convert! hehe).

We were told by the bar staff that there would be a Sunset Cocktails at the Sandbank late evening, so we decided to have a Balinese massage first. The therapists were not the same ones we had before when I first visited the island. The old ones were definitely better!

At about 5pm, we went to the jetty to join the guests departing for the sandbank. I was so inappropriately dressed, as in super over-dressed compared to the other guests as most of them were just in their swimwear! Only when we got there that I realized that since we have lots of time before the sunset, we can also go for a swim!

We had to wade through the water after disembarking from the dhoni. And voila! My new fashion statement --- tied hemline of my dress! lol

The sight awaiting us was awesome! No other words for it but ---- perfect! We had a few glasses of champagne, with the astounding sunset panorama as our backdrop and the sound of the lapping waves as our music.....what a sublime experience!

When dusk started to set in and clouds enveloped the glorious sunset....It was really difficult to leave the sandbank....

Still in my euphoric mood from the sandbank, we had dinner alfresco instead of sitting inside the restaurant. My mood crashed when I was given the bad news --- apparently, due to our haste, we left our house door unlocked and the key left in the door itself! Good thing our cleaner came over (after 2.5 days coz he was on holiday also!) and saw it (later on, when we came back to the house, everything was intact. Thank God!).

I wanted to walk a bit around the island after dinner, we ended up at the jetty. Its one of my favorite pastime, gazing silently at the water especially during nighttime when everything is so quiet....

I sat on the planks to be nearer, I was curious about the blinking neon-coloured patch in the beach. Planktons were everywhere! OMG! Really amazing!

The end of the jetty itself is a colorful aquarium, full of different variety of fishes illuminated by the jetty lights.

The entertainment for the night was again a Cabaret show but this time with a different theme and story. Some of the animators are also new, but they were still so hilarious especially the Mr. Bean character! Even if I cannot still understand a single word they are saying, I just couldn't help but laugh with the other guests.

I promised myself to wake up early on our last day in the island --- I still need to get a tan!

Being in the beach at 6:30am means you have the entire place to yourself (not that you'd ever feel overcrowded, this is the Maldives after all, where you can have a secluded strip of beach all to yourself anytime!), with just the sun, sand, and clear blue waters for company....

Its blissful moments of tranquility like this that I will truly miss about the life I have here in the Maldives. I've been blessed to be able to have these experiences, to see this unbelievable beauty......there's no other place in the world as perfect as these tiny white sand-ringed coral islands dotting the Indian Ocean.

I am still humbled by the sheer perfection of the place after how many years of being here, its so out of this world....

Just before leaving the island, this beautiful maccanah bird really made me smile.....she must have noticed me lurking in the beach taking photos.....she preened herself and hopped from the jetty to the coral bed....as if telling me to take more photos! hahahaha

Perfect!

Bathala Island Resort

2010-11-20T19:19:00.002+05:00

We had a really long holiday break in the Maldives due to the Hajj and Eid holidays, so what better place to go than in a resort where you can bake in the sun!

Good thing though, boss offered us a complimentary stay at Bathala Island Resort. It was J-Blogged second visit to the island but it was my first so I was really excited. We got up early for our veeerrry early morning transfer. Check in was at 5.15am at the Maldivian Air Taxi counter so I had to wake up at 4:30am! OMG! If not for the love of sunbathing I would not have even got up from my bed!

There was no seaplane transfer direct to the resort that day hence we had to be dropped off at the nearby Constance Halaveli resort. We were picked up late (I think they have forgotten us until we called the resort! Aww) but the Halaveli staff we were with were so hospitable and invited us to join their speed launch and wait for the dhoni transfer to Bathala from the comforts of their jetty lounge area. Thank you very much for such a welcome!

The view of the resort from the seaplane. Perfect!

Bathala Island Resort is a 3-star resort which is frequented by diving enthusiasts due to its proximity to fantastic diving sites and a very colorful marine ecosystem within its lagoon. The guests were mainly Italians although there were some smattering of Japanese divers from time to time. During our stay, it was almost fully booked. Well, it’s almost always fully booked the whole year round!

Due to the lack of overwater villas and facilities, the corals around the house reef are still intact where you can snorkel to your heart’s content. Not my heart though, I will just content myself with swimming in the chest-deep waters close to the beach! Hahaha but hey, look at this manta ray! I think this manta pitied me so it came near the shore just to say Hi!

Been a bit pale from days spent cooped up inside the office every single day, so I dedicated a single morning (and an hour in the afternoon) just rolling around in the sand to top up my tan!

In between our suntanning sessions, we went over to the Rehendi Spa to have a Balinese massage. Heavenly! The therapists were great! The spa itself is a novelty. It’s an old dhoni which was transformed into a spa with a fabulous view of the sunset from its treatment room. Couple this with the magical hands of the therapists, and its complete bliss…

Almost everyone (including the waiters and room attendants) in this resort I think can converse in Italian! Well, that is…..except us! Lol

Italians I realized love parties and social events, and this being a majority Italian-filled resort, every night there is always an event going on. The first night, they had a Cabaret Show with comedy skits performed by the inhouse tour guides. It was hilarious! Even if we cannot understand a single thing, we were still laughing out loud just by interpreting their actions.

Afterwards, everyone went back to the bar and someone had turned up the music and it was Party Time! Rihanna’s songs really made me get up and dance till midnight! Oh well, no office work the following day so I can just sleep in! hahahaha

Another highly anticipated event every night is the shark-watching at around 7:30pm at the arrival jetty. They come to visit the island every night. Its so amazing to look at them playing or scrambling for scraps of fish meat thrown at them (not really environmentally-friendly though as this makes the sharks domesticated).

When not in the beach, our days were spent either having a cappuccino while reading a book under the trees or in a hammock or better yet, having an early cocktail at the bar. What blissful we live…..hahahaha…..I could get used to this, eh?

Meals are taken at the main restaurant (although the bar also offers some light snacks and sandwiches) in buffet style. You really have to ask the waiters or the attending chefs for English translations though coz some of the display tags on the food are in Italian!

The rooms are pretty basic but they managed to keep it really clean and tidy. The bathrooms are the open-air style very typical of old Maldivian resorts. But I love the towels! I was so surprised --- the luxurious Frette range!

Ciao Bathala, till my next holiday again....

Beach Disco Party @ Sheraton Maldives

2010-11-09T18:05:00.014+05:00

Thursday nights you can usually find me wiping off mugs of beer or drinking cocktails at the Champs Bar in Hulhule Island Hotel but Male expats now have a new party destination --- Sheraton Full Moon Maldives!

After primping yourself up, you can just head on to Jetty 7 (fronting Shellbeans Café) and wait for the Sheraton boat at 8:30pm to ferry you towards the resort. You only have to pay U$10 per person for the boat transfer. And then it’s off to the beach disco party!

I don’t know whether to love the seating arrangement or curse it! Lol They have dug the sand out and put some cushions over it and guests can sit on the sand and use the sand table.

The music can still be improved on. It’s a mix of old songs (as in really ABBA era! I mean, I love ABBA songs but there’s a limit especially if it’s followed with Bob Marley’s “I Shot the Sheriff!”) and some new ones. I want to hear more Rihanna songs, please! lol

Last Thursday was a blast! The best night in Sheraton I’ve had so far. We went with our Thai friends who are hard-core party people! I cannot remember how many beer bottles I’ve guzzled that night! We danced and danced the whole night despite the music, I think it’s the company of partygoers that matters. A lively throng of dancers were there who really wanted to drink and dance that night.

I ended up losing my shoes that night and came back home barefoot! Hahaha

I think someone made some pranks on our shoes because I’m not the only one who lost a shoe or both!

And the mad scramble to find our shoes.....digging by hand in the sand! hahahaha

Anyways, shoe-less or not I definitely recommend that you go there and party with us next Thursday!

Browns Beach Hotel

2010-10-30T14:15:00.017+05:00

Negombo, Sri Lanka

I made my hotel reservations in advance through my office colleague’s travel operator friend and was able to get a U$10 discount off the rack rate, it does pay to have good contacts. I remembered a friend before who maliciously commented to another friend that, “you should try to stay in a hotel paying the full fee and not just have freebies before you compare blah blah blah”……well, sorry to say, but I’m glad I am working in the hotel industry and has a lot of contacts who can provide us with discounts and yeah, sometimes “freebies”. Lol

It was already late (around 9pm) when I arrived at the hotel and I immediately asked whether I can have a “free” late check-out, and they said yes we can let you stay in until 6pm! Aww, they are so nice! At least I only have a few hours to while away till my departure to the airport at 9pm the following day.

My room was on the first floor so when I came out from the lift I was ecstatic to see a table laden with English novels! The cheapie in me couldn’t resist taking 2 novels (the ones I bought at Vijitha Yapa costs at least 650LKR each!) out. I think these are novels left by guests here and don’t want to lug it around when they are travelling around Sri Lanka.

Beware! There are no bath tubs in the Standard Rooms! I really expected that they would have one as the price is a bit high, at US$85 per night it is almost comparable to Colombo hotels already. But what really depressed me was the state the bath towels were in…..judge for yourself….

The bedroom is quite nice with a little traditional touches like this elephant décor near the bed headboard.

All the rooms have sea-facing verandas also which gives you panoramic views like these in the early mornings.

The breakfast buffet is okay and offers quite a variety of traditional breakfast dishes although for those who are not keen on sampling can go for the typical scrambled eggs/omelets with sausages and beans. The restaurant is near the reception and one can choose which area to sit in, there is an area which has a commanding view of the beach hence it’s also where everyone wants to sit!

Since the beach is not that good for non-swimmers like me, I just contented myself with short laps in the hotel swimming pool and later on snatching a few suntan moments while reading the book I swiped from the lobby. By ten o’clock when everyone had finished their breakfast, my “alone” moment at the pool was now shared by a lot of guests.

After lunch at a nearby seafood restaurant and a trip to the town center, I came back to the hotel for a short nap before checking out. The bell attendant was very helpful and proceeded to take my luggage to the store room. Since I still have at least a couple of hours to kill I decided to visit the Ayurveda Centre and try a massage.

Ayurveda means Ayur – Life and Veda – Science, so it means It is the Science of Life. Whenever I’m in Sri Lanka, I always want to have at least one ayurveda treatment in every trip.

The facilities at the Ayurveda Centre is a bit rustic. I don’t know whether this is the way they designed it to be but it definitely is not your posh idea of a spa. I was left with less than an hour till closing time so I opted instead to have a Herbal Facial (LKR 2000) for 45 minutes. A bit expensive....I remembered our trip to Kandy where we had an Ayurveda Package for only 2400LKR and it came already with a Herbal Sauna, Steam Bath, and a traditional massage.

The male therapist I had was good. His hands were so soft on my skin. I think he has better hands than me! Hahahhaha

After my treatment, I went to the bar for a couple of beers before capping my stay in Negombo and going back again to sunny Maldives.

Cheers! Till my next trip to Sri Lanka again….

Postcards from Negombo

2010-10-30T14:14:00.024+05:00

Negombo, Sri Lanka

Just about 15minutes by car or 25minutes by tuktuk from the Bandaranaike International Airport, lies the resort town of Negombo. As I wascoming from Colombo (I hied it off immediately after our training ended!) during rush hour, the traffic was horrible! It took us 1.5hours to get into Negombo town and since I used the metered cab (please call +94 11 2588588 Kangaroo Cabs, for me they are the most reliable cab company in Sri Lanka) my fare only went up to 3,250LKR. Not a penny more, not a penny less! Hahahaha…..the novel I had with me had that title (by Jeffrey Archer) hence the pun.

Dutch Heritage

I was told by the receptionist at Browns Beach Hotel that “ma’am, the guests who comes here doesn’t want to go out for excursions coz they want to relax and spend their time at the beach”. Oooppssss, typical Pinay that I am I asked for the excursions guide coz I was thinking of maybe going for a canal ride (good thing I did not coz I don’t think I can take the smell) but proceeded on going around town on my own --- well, as advised by my new tuktuk driver friend M. Deen (if you are going to Negombo just send a private msg to me so I can give you his mobile number, he is a top driver and very honest also!).

Punctuated around the town are the remnants of Dutch colonization, while walking through Grand Street in the town center I passed by well-preserved colonial houses, some are still being used as residences and some converted into guesthouses or restaurants.

The main attraction is the old Dutch Fort gate which was built in 1672 but you cannot go in anymore as it has now been utilized as a local prison. Just next to the gate is an old Anglican church which is still in use but during the time I visited it was closed and so is the pre-school attached to it.

Snaking through the entire town and beyond is the 100-km long Dutch Canal, used to be the supply route during the colonial era. But it is now very dirty and unkempt.

Another important religious souvenir during the colonial era is the construction of numerous beautiful churches around town. The most important and one of the biggest is the 19^th-century Church of Mary located along Grand Street. Christianization arrived in the shores of Negombo around the 1500s with the coming of the Portuguese missionaries and had really taken root through the centuries, making this small town the heart of Christian Sri Lanka.

Although Christians are a minority elsewhere in the country (less than 10% of the population) but here in Negombo eighty percent or more are Christians, with Catholics being the highest. Statues of St. Anthony and other religious figures adorn the streets (weird to see them around Sri Lanka as I am used to seeing Buddhist/Hindu deities) and entrances to residential buildings.

I passed by the picture-perfect St. Anthony’s Church on my way back to Lewis Place area.

Negombo Beach

The beach in Negombo reminded me of Bali, although the sand quality here is much finer and more golden (the color, I mean!). But the crashing waves is definitely not for beginners or swimmers who can barely keep themselves afloat in the water! No wonder most of the guests opted to do their sunbathing in the swimming pool area especially those with kids.

Negombo is a fishing town and most of the townsfolk are still engaged in it. Dozens of fishing boats with their sails on, bobbing up in the water is a common sight along this stretch of the Indian Ocean.

When the sun started to set in, the beach started to become full with people, not only the returning fishermen but also some couples strolling hand in hand in the sand, a group of boys playing cricket, or this little girl chasing the birds along the shore. It certainly is a beehive of activity at dusk.

Dining

The one thing that I loved here in this town is the endless seafood restaurants strewn along Lewis Place or Pothutha Road in the beach part of town. And of course being a Catholic majority town, there are lots of pork dishes available also! Yum-yum-yum…

On my first night I went walking along Poruthutha Road with no specific destination in mind, although there are some recommendations from my LP guide I decided to just go along and stop wherever I fancy. I ended up in Oasis Restaurant, a seafood & lobster restaurant. I don’t know whether I was too late as it was about 9:30pm already but the place was quiet and I was the lone customer although I like the décor of the place, it even has a swimming pool inside the premises!

There are a lot of dining options especially in the Beach side area, for the second night I went to the Coconut Primitive restaurant and had their Calamari platter (it’s close to Browns Beach hotel). It seems to be a very popular place as it is always full 2 nights in a row!

Another option is to go to the town proper where you find delightful little cafes like the Ice Bear Century Cafe, a restored pink/peach colonial house where you can cool yourself with a glass of Iced Coffee after hours of walking around. I love the decors inside!

Although it was a short stay, I definitely enjoyed my time in Negombo. I got my tan, my seafoods, and my history lessons!

A stay at Ramada Colombo

2010-10-30T13:18:00.018+05:00

To be on the safe side (and not to irk my work colleagues with my usual bartering cheapie self), I went to the taxi service booth at the arrivals area. No bargaining with the price of 3,000LKR, we were on a hurry coz we arrived at the Bandaranaike International Airport at around 11:30am and we have a software training session at 2pm. That’s cutting it short but the ride to the city is normally just under an hour so I was thinking we have enough time to check in at our hotel and have lunch.

Unbelievable! We were given a driver who doesn’t know his way around Colombo City! Give me a week or two maybe, and I’ll probably be better than him! My first stop was at the lawyer’s office in Colombo 05 (it took him a long time to find the place!) and it was a nightmare getting from there to our hotel at Galle Face Green! To think that it’s a popular landmark!

He is probably the only Srilankan who doesn’t know where Galle Face Green is!

We were soooo late! I had to call and ask our trainors to wait for us for at least an hour. Lesson for the day: its better to have your hotel arrange for your airport transfers!

Staying at Ramada Colombo
The hotel used to be the Holiday Inn Colombo, I have not stayed there when it was still a Holiday Inn so I cannot make comparisons from its before-and-after condition. However, with a 10usd difference with Cinnamon Lakeside and Hilton it is way overpriced!
I was really expecting something else, similar to the other Ramada hotels that I’ve seen in other places. This hotel is a bit rundown and with very limited facilities. The breakfast buffet ( I normally check this coz I’m often booked on BB basis) was really bland and boring --- no pork bacon! Maybe it’s now catering to halal customers coz there were no pork dishes at all! Such a no-no for a pork eater like me! HeheThere is no wow effect. The room was okay and I was pleasantly surprised with the chocolate gift box (nice touch!) but the bed linen was definitely old-fashioned. There was a bath tub but no bath salts included in the box of amenities --- ano kaya yun? Paano ko yan gamitin? One thing I noticed here in Sri Lanka, the hotel amenities are not of good quality even the five-star hotels…..I mean, the shampoo doesn’t have suds, the conditioner doesn’t make your hair soft, etc…..
It is also a favorite hotel venue for weddings. I love Srilankan weddings! It’s so colorful and so traditional. This is a wedding party accompanying the married couple, complete with dancers and drummers!
But their front office team is great! Faces wreath in warm and cordial smiles, they were always helpful.

Galle Face Green
The most popular landmark in Colombo (except for our cab driver, that is!) and is where all the hotels seem to converge or pass by, Galle Face Hotel is fronting it, our hotel is just on the roundabout, Taj Samudra is just close to it, and on your way to Cinnamon Lakeside or Colombo Hilton you will pass it by.

I wanted to see it at night, and so on this trip I went and ventured out. Galle Face Green certainly comes alive at night, with families playing in the grass and eateries (or “turo-turo) springing up on the sidewalks with the crashing waves serving as a background to the bustle around. One thing I noticed though as a huge difference between the Pinoy version (ala Baywalk!) is the absence of groups of men doing the “tagayan” or singing their lungs out in the videokes! Hahaha I was debating on whether to have dinner at Galle Face Hotel (I really want to stay in this hotel as in promise next time I visit na wala akong ibang kasama I will really stay here --- ayaw ni boss kasi may ipis daw! Haaaayyyy) but KFC won out…..iba talaga ang sarap ng KFC! Lol

And now off to my date with the TV and my Robert Ludlum novel (I’m reading The Cry of the Halidon --- the only novel of RL that I have not read!).

I can’t wait for the next day --- I’m off to Negombo!

Colombo Revisited......

2010-10-03T23:01:00.055+05:00

Colombo, Sri Lanka

It’s been almost 2 years since my last visit to Colombo, the civil war has ended and there are a lot of developments around the city. After our site visit to Dambulla, I had a few days to myself before I have to fly back to the Maldives so I went around the city re-acquainting myself with the place which is soon going to be my new home.

I agree, not everyone can be like my favorite tuktuk driver Namaal and be so self-less but still I was hoping I will somehow meet tuktuk drivers in Colombo which are even just half-way decent as him. One thing I realized however is that, either the gasoline prices have truly ballooned up or I look really gullible and naïve to these drivers. Before getting on a tuktuk, your frame of mind should be, these drivers are out to rip me off --- really sorry about this comment but hey, let’s be realistic!
A trip around town will normally cost from 50 LKR – 300 LKR depending on the distance, from WTC to my hotel for instance, for a local they will only pay around 50LKR for the trip but when I flagged down a tuktuk, all of them started quoting from 300 LKR, and one driver even said 400LKR!!! Do I look rich??? My God, I was really fuming mad. I normally haggle to death till I can manage a 200LKR fare, still a bit steep but I’d like to think that I’m helping the driver and his family with my extra fare.

Religion
The diversity and multi-ethnicity of the Sri Lankan society is never more pronounced than in its religious denominations. Although majority of the population are Buddhists, there are also Christians, Moslems, and Hindus living side by side with each other (except for the troubled northern area of Jaffna) peacefully unlike in India where religious divides are really manifested in society.

They have Catholic Churches (and I hope I can meet a Filipino priest here) around the city so I felt so at ease and since it was a Sunday I went to pray at a nearby church. I am not deeply religious but coming from the Maldives where you cannot practice any other religion but Islam, I felt so unrestricted and free, that I can now easily hear Mass any time I want is really an advantage in relocating here.

Most of the outstanding Buddhist temples are out of Colombo. In the city, the only temples of note are the Seema Malakaya Meditation Centre located in the middle of the Beira Lake. It is just a small place surrounded by Buddhist statues with birds flying over it, and in the distance, some enterprising local had set up a lake boating business.
The Gangaramaya Temple is quite attractive with its yellow façade and the ever present elephant which you can feed with ripe bananas. The main temple itself is not so big but the entire complex also houses a library, a museum and an altar display of hundreds of Buddhas statues.
I was also surprised to see some Hindu kovils dotted around the city, this one I found while walking around Colombo 02 area.
For all of my visits in Colombo I always end up shopping in the main Odel branch but only now I realized that right across the shopping mall is this enchanting mosque --- the sparkling white Dewata-Gaha Mosque. I will check in my next visit if I can go inside the mosque coz when I went to India before I was able to go inside the Darga complex in Rajasthan.
Museums
After visiting Colombo more than 10 times, I am so ashamed to admit that I did not even visit any museum in the city. For someone who professed to be a History buff my education is certainly lacking so I decided to go and visit the National Museum.
I don’t want to lose my temper again bargaining with the tuktuk drivers so I decided to just take the hotel car (and immediately regretted coz it’s 3 times more expensive!) to the museum and at the gate I just closed my eyes to the exorbitant fee and sincerely hoped that the LKR500 entrance fee is worth it.
Indeed it is worth every penny I paid! The museum is housed in an old white colonial mansion which was built in 1877. Inside the museum is a treasure trove of well-preserved relics from the Ceylonian past, carefully catalogued according to its period, from the Anuradhapura kingdom to the Polunnaruwa period to the Kandyan kingdoms, everything is laid out in perfect condition. They belong to a very sophisticated civilization. Now I am so excited to go visit these ancient citadels to see for myself all the temples and relics from the past. Anuradhapura, you wait for me! Lol
The following day, I went to the Pettah district to look for the Dutch Museum. It used to be the 17th century residence of the Dutch governor and with a lovely albeit small courtyard at the back. I went there on a Sunday and it was supposed to be closed but the gatekeeper was there so he let me in and I had the whole place to myself without the usual tourist like me snapping pictures…hehehe…it’s a bit rundown especially as I just came from the National Museum the other day.

Around the City
The city never ceases to amaze, in every turn you always get a few surprises. Coming out from the church and walking towards Justice Akbar road, this line of multi-colored shops created a splash of color in an otherwise drab landscape of concrete buildings.
I went around the bustling Pettah district also with its numerous shops selling everything from clothes to electronics to vegetables and fruits! But it can be such a headache walking around the area, with smells of rotten vegetables and other odors wafting in the streets and intermingling with the strong aromas of south asian dishes coming from the restaurants. I normally can take it and I’m quite used to it from my travels in the region but when I smelled a burnt curry powder it’s just too much for me so I forgot about looking for the Wolvendaal Church and immediately flagged down a tuktuk without even haggling for the price. Me and the curry powder are sworn enemies……
This is the façade of the fire station --- doesn’t look like one eh? So pretty….

Or these colonial era buildings around the fort area…..
Towards Cinnamon Gardens, you will pass by the Viharamahadevi Park (the biggest park in Colombo I think) and just right across is the Old Town Hall or the Srilankan version of the White House. The park has no special features in it, there are more beautiful parks in Peradeniya and Hakgala.
I still have a few places to visit in the city for my next visit. I have to go again before the end of the month!