Climbing the Sigiriya Rock Fortress

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

It was Poya Day when we left Colombo (hence the lack of vehicle traffic) last 19^th January, the streets were so quiet and we managed to arrive in just 4hrs to Dambulla and just a few minutes more we were already in Sigiriya Village Hotel.

I really got excited. It was just 3pm when we finished lunch. I called up our driver (oh, the poor guy! I forgot to tell him that I want to go beforehand and he had already retired in his room!) and off we went!

On the way to the rock, we passed by a small creek and I couldn’t resist taking a photo of this mahout bathing his elephant in the water.

The Sigiriya Rock Fortress had been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982. Rising out from the jungle, The Rock is like a beacon for travelers from afar. Local legend has it that King Kassapa (AD 477 – 495, making this at least almost 1600 years old) sought a place where he can fortify himself after overthrowing and murdering his own father and usurping the throne from the rightful heir.

According to the more pragmatic archaeologists though, this rock was used as a Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist monastery built even centuries before the time of King Kassapa. Monks were supposedly using this as a mountain monastery as early as 3^rd century BC and by 10^th century AD it had become a very popular hermitage place.

My very helpful driver, Ishantha, guided me to the ticket booth which is near the museum area and right across the entrance gate. The single entry ticket only for Sigiriya Rock is U$25.00, or you may purchase the Cultural Triangle ticket for U$55.00 if you have plans of visiting the other ancient capitals like Anuradhapura-Polonnaruwa-Ritigala-Nalanda-Kandy. I decided to just take the single entry ticket as I don’t know yet when I will be able to visit the other sites.

The minute you alight from your vehicle till the time that you are inside the rock complex, there will be a multitude of men who will latch on to you and “help” you. These helpful guides will then charge 1000LKR for their help. So if you don’t have extra money with you, you can tell them nicely that you don’t need any assistance.

On the palace grounds (or monastery, whichever tale you chose to believe), there are beautifully-laid out water gardens which is still in use till this day. These must have doubled up as water reservoirs during those days thousand years ago. The further you go, you’ll chance upon cave boulders and terraced gardens all the way up.

According to one of the “helpful” guys who tried to latch on to me, there are about 1,200 steps to the top of the Rock. Ouch! It was okay at the base, as you trudge on through the stone steps but when you start going up the rock, don’t look down if you have fear of heights!

Late afternoon is indeed the best time to go up, the sun is almost setting down and you get a cool breeze fanning your face while you go up the rickety steps. It was such a fascinating and picturesque climb, you go through rock hewn passages and pass by small caves.

I first went for the colorful frescoes of beautiful women adorning the rock face, the entrance was on the other side of the rock wall. There were only a few left but it was really well-preserved. They have covered it with tarpaulin and all visitors are prohibited from using flash when taking photos.

Then you pass by the Mirror Wall, they said it was originally polished so the king can see himself while walking along. I did walk alongside the wall but alas, either it was not polished this time or it’s just not shining but I definitely did not see myself on it! Lol

And so I arrived at the Lion’s Gate --- named as such because at the entrance, you will go through two giant Lion’s paws guarding both sides of the entrance gate. This is the base for the ascent to the top of the rock. The rock rises 370m (1,214ft) above sea level, not really much though, but it can be scary as it is a sheer drop on all sides!

The railings were just attached to the rock surface and I keep on telling myself, “Yvonne, there are like hundreds of people climbing here every single day!” just to make sure I can prod myself to go up further. One time I glanced down (my mistake!) and my breath just swooshed out!

But the view at the rock summit is amazing! Well worth the tiring climb and the even more tiring walk down. There were still well-preserved palace ruins, a water reservoir which looks like a huge swimming pool (maybe they used this as a swimming pool back then also eh?).

It took me about two hours for my entire Sigiriya Rock experience. I could have stayed longer but the place also is almost closing up and I don’t want to be left all alone with all the ghost of the past for company! Hahaha

The exit is on another side, numerous souvenir stalls like these are scattered around the parking area.