(10) New Delhi -- the Capital

(Diary: Sojourn to India – March 30 – April 30, 2006)

This is not my first time in New Delhi, I stopped here for a day on my way from Agra to Himachal Pradesh. The city did not register much to me that time as I was really excited about finally going to Dharamsala. I just wizzed by it without visiting any important sights or places although I was able to squeeze in a trip to Chandni Chowk, with its multitude of small shops and alleys.

This time around I have more time to explore the city with three days to go before I have to board my train for Chennai (I am in for a solitary 36hours train ride!). I arrived early in the morning from a 13-hour bus trip from McLeod Ganj and immediately went to the backpacker area of Paharganj. I stayed in the room the whole morning, I’m not really keen to start my tour of the city yet. I think I still need to recuperate from the tiring bus trip. But my God! The temperature in Delhi is really a shock from the cold temperatures of the Himalayas. It was around 40 – 41 celsius!!!

I started going around on my second day. First stop, Lal Qila (Red Fort)…..really similar to the one in Agra….even to how the gardens and temples were laid out. Not surprising as it was the same rulers who built these --- Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb. The Emperor Shah Jahan used this as his main palace. The place still managed to retain most of the buildings although it was completed in 1648, more than 360 years ago!

There is only one entrance to the Fort and it was heavily guarded, the Lahore Gate. Their concern is understandable as it is a heavily visited area and a few years back it was a site for a “terrorist” attack which killed a few people. From the entrance, you also pass by the Chatta Chowk (or the Covered Bazaar), full of hawkers selling souvenir items.

It’s so blazing hot! Walking through the complex can take at least an hour if you really take the time to go through and internalize life in the court of Shah Jahan or Aurangzeb. Did you know that the residential palace of the Emperor’s main wife is called Rang Mahal (Color Palace) and the apartment complex for the harem is called Mumtaz Mahal (Jewel Palace)?

From the fort, I went to visit the Jama Masjid --- considered the largest Mosque in India is also built by Emperor Shah Jahan. The line going up was long as it is a major mosque and a lot of pilgrims and tourists go there. I did not really go up to the minaret anymore coz I was thinking someone might take the mojos I left at the foot of the steps! It is customary to leave your shoes at the entrance before going up the steps and you have to be properly attired, women should cover their shoulders!

Since it was in a sense my last major stop-over before I have to go home (I will be in Chennai for just a day!), I decided to hit the bazaars and shopping areas. Karol Bagh is a must-visit. I went there via the Metro Rail, it was easy navigating the city thru the MRT although it was confusing at first and I kept on getting on a wrong train! Janpath is another place for bargain hunters. It sells everything from clothes to books and souvenirs.

Since I was staying in the Paharganj area, the Main Bazaar is just two blocks away from my guesthouse. It is full of cheap souvenir t-shirts, shawls, and other pasalubong items with prices geared towards backpackers --- meaning, it is really cheap and affordable! Khan Market is more sosyal as the prices there are generally higher than anywhere else.

The best way to go around the city is by the three-wheeled cycle rickshaws. You get the best vantage point from your seat at the back, you get to soak up on the smells and noises around the city especially in the market areas. This man really caught my attention, he is such a National Geographic potential.

What I love about Delhi or India for that matter is that, this is the only place where both the old and new seems to live together harmoniously. Passing through a market area, I saw an ox cart full of vegetables and next to it was a brand new car. What seems to be an anomaly is so normal in Indian society. That is what makes this place so captivating.

Breakfast was the stash I got yesterday from Wengers…twas okay for cold food… after taking bus rides to and fro Dharamsala, I am enjoying again these private moments on a train to Chennai.

Ciao Delhi!!!