(1) Trivandrum, Kerala

(Diary: Sojourn to India - March 30 - April 30, 2006)


Trivandrum International Airport is the smallest international airport i’ve been to, so far! Just four immigration desks, it’s even smaller than Cebu! (Umm...since i haven’t been to Clark or Laoag yet maybe you can discount my pronounciations)

India is definitely an assault on the senses. You either love it or hate it on sight. I happen to fall in love with everything at first sight!

I arrived in the hot, dusty capital of Trivandrum in the afternoon with a promise to myself that I will not splurge or bust my budget. I’ve been told before that the best way to experience India is to live on a budget, live like a local and travel like one.

Lugging my backpack (I borrowed it from a friend – thanks!) with me, I asked the tuk-tuk driver to let me off at Trivandrum Central coz I want to get a train ticket for Bangalore before I go looking for a place to stay the night. After being pointed, first to a local railway depot (after lining for a queue – they told me, Central station is on the other side of the street) and a bus terminal, I found the ticketing office.

Bad news! The line is long......... a lot of people are waiting, some with children in tow. Everything is so confusing for me. Do I wait in line? Or get a priority ticket before filling up the form or vice-versa? Or just simply barge into the counters? I did all three and was told there are no more seats for the following day or if i can wait for a few more hours there might be an opening of slots for Tatkal (an express service supposedly used for emergencies wherein you can buy train tickets to all parts of India a day ahead of your trip). But take note, it is 300 rupees more than the average fare for each accommodation (2AC regular fare is 1410 rupees + 300 Tatkal service) – well, you asked for express, right?

Getting a train ticket in India is really an art. Some people like the couple who had a daughter, Dona, waited for 8 days just to get tickets. Upon hearing this, i got more and more deflated.

Oh God, there goes my vacation schedule. I only have 5 weeks, I can’t stay in Trivandrum forever!

Since i have two hours to kill before checking back again, I decided to go out and look for a guesthouse/hostel. I am cheap, very very cheap. Although i am working for a hotel company (with 5-star properties!), the sophistication and glamour has not rubbed off on me.

Following my Lonely Planet guide, i walked through MG Road. The whole town converges I think on this strip, the train & bus stations, budget hotels, restaurants, bookshops, you name it, its there. Being Pinoy to the core, I expected to see shopping malls (or at least one!) in every street corner of the capital. But alas, even the Higginbothams branch they have is just a dark, small place crammed with books!

A few blocks inside Manjalikulam St, I found Pravin Tourist Home. It’s clean, airy and the staff at the reception is helpful. The downside of paying only 237 rupees per night is that you have a fan room, only a bucket and no hot shower and a threadbare cloth as bed sheet.

After a quick cold shower, I went back for my ticket.

The ticketing officer was in ebullient mood, he asked from which country i am from and when i said, “I’m from the Philippines!” he said, “I watched a very famous movie, Crying Ladies ( i tried to remember what is the movie about so i can answer him back) and I like Sharon Cuneta, she’s a very good actress. And i answered, “oh yes, she is also my favourite!”.

After a few minutes, he told me, he got a berth for me at the 2AC compartment. Aleluia! Salamat po Ate Shawie!

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Maybe its the excitement of being in an exotic place or its the itchiness from my bed linen, I woke up early (well, 7am is early for me!) and went to Prime Square, a restaurant off MG Rd. I don't really know what I'm eating but its called Thali. It tasted good, though my nostrils seem to be bursting!

I walked around looking for a bookshop to get a copy of Time & Newsweek and maybe a novel or two for my 18-hr trip to Bangalore later in the afternoon. Movie posters are everywhere! I was later told by an officemate that in the states of Tamil Nadu & Kerala, they have a vibrant Tamil movie industry and that it's different from Bollywood (the dialect used for instance). It is indeed vibrant. The pictures are colorful montages of dramatic duels and street fights -- a recurring theme in their movies (medyo kahawig ng FPJ movies! binubugbog muna ang bida bago bumawi).

There is a restaurant along MG Rd that is an institution in this town. The Indian Coffee House, with its turbanned waiters (totoo, naka-outfit sila! nakalimutan ko lng i-piktyur kasi ang bilis nila maglakad) and winding tables, shaped like a tower, it looks so odd from the outside like a clay pot! Of course i had to go there before i leave town. Feeling ko nasa Leaning tower of Pisa ako, coz while I was walking up looking for a vacant table (the place is always full) I feel as if I'm tilting and I have to grab at the table edges. Finally, I got a table. I was already eating when I realized why its vacant --- it is located directly near the toilet (men's pa talaga!)


Time to go..... train is boarding up at 2.30pm and is expected to arrive at the Cantonment area between 8.30 - 9am.


p.s. Trains usually have an AC and nonAC compartments; 1st class AC, 2AC, 3AC (2 berths and 3 berths, the lower berth is more expensive than the upper berths -- only during night time that the upper berths will be taken down for sleeping)

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