(4) Reminisces in Goa

(Diary: Sojourn to India - March 31 - April 30, 2006)

The town of Panaji (or Panjim) is distinctly hispanic. The typical landscape of a town square, main buildings surrounding it, the narrow side streets and big Catholic cathedrals dotting the area.

Sounds so familiar, right? And yet so un-Indian. I've always been fascinated about going to Goa, living like a hippie on its hyped-about golden beaches and partying the night away. This was like, way back 10 years ago.....

Past forward...I arrived, thoroughly frazzled and tired, and went to stay at the Republica Hotel right near the Panaji jetty and overlooking the calm waters of the Mandovi River. Medyo posh-sounding yung place but it is a budget guesthouse (it is really true what the guide book said, the rooms at the back have windows with no views! though cheap at 200(S)/350(D) which is strategically located in the center of the town. Everything is a walk away....well, literally almost...

I did just that in the afternoon. Someone told me, "Panjim is just a 1-hour walk". Eh, may pagka-'tangs' din ako, I went out and followed suit. From the Jose Falcao Rd, i passed through colorfully painted houses and really small alleys. Just around the corner, onwards to the Emilio Gracia Rd is the whitewashed Church of our Lady of the Immaculate Concepcion perched above the town square. It was a quite afternoon and the church was closed, good thing there was a couple nearby to take photos of me! (Hahaha...siempre pa!)

Inside a little street is the popular, Viva Panjim. Known for its welcoming hosts and good food, the place really lived up to its name. My first taste of food that reminds me of home, one of their specialties is seafood cuisine. I sat on an outdoor table and chatted with the waiter (he is from Nepal and is just one of the many Nepalese people that comes to India to work odd jobs).

I continued walking towards the Armada Portoguesa Rd and after a couple of wrong turns, I found the Maruti Temple - its so blazing red (well, its supposed to be called 'salmon pink' kaya lang I only know the primary colors! hehehe). The temple is dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman and is set on a hill (you have to climb a few steps).

I was supposed to turn right at the next junction after reaching the Bishop's Palace (di na ako nagtagal doon, I just passed by it) to go back to Church Square but due to my incapability to comprehend maps, i turned left and found myself walking and walking and walking......pass through the Altinho district....over a slum area with garbage piles.....I really am lost right in small-town Panjim!

Dr. Gama Pinto Rd, the street sign says....okay, medyo nakahinga na ako ng maluwag coz at least after almost an hour of walking (nakadaan na ako in a factory and a park-- I really got scared then at kung ano-ano na naisip ko) I am back on the map! Just to be sure, I asked how to go to Church Square -- after much debate (as in maraming tumulong to give me their opinions, kasali na yung barbero and a lounging tuktuk driver) and after 8 different versions of how to go there -- I continued on. After taking a quick snack in a small cafe near the Hotel Nova Goa, at the junction of Cumba-Rivara Rd and Ormuz Rd, I am now officially back in Church Square!

Sipping coffee in the balcony of the guesthouse, I looked out to the Mandovi River. Its gray waters is so peaceful and tranquil. I started reminiscing about the childhood spent in provincial bliss. I am so blessed that I was raised in a small town (with only a couple of thousand residents) definitely smaller than Panjim and living a carefree, innocent life. Oh, how I miss those days! When all I think about is how to sneak out from our house so I can read the 'forbidden' comic books I have hidden out in our neighbor's house (Papa banned it from our house).

I got sales-talked into taking the Mandovi River Night Cruise aboard one of the gaily decorated boats from the Santa Monica jetty (the cruise ticket also includes a bus tour around Goa for about an hour). For two hours, there were performers entertaining us with Goan folk songs and dances. When the time came for the public to join the dancing, naloka ako as in, the MEN jumped into the stage! Its the other way around, its the guys who love to show off dancing here! My mouth hanging open, I texted my buddy Marcos (he is from Goa and used to work with me in Maldives but was in Dubai that time) with a "I can't believe Indian guys! They just simply jump off the stage and danced!" and he called back laughing.

Except for the rapist-in-the-future maniac tour guide, the trip was great fun. He really thinks his offer of a night out in town is a gift! Ano yun? excuse me, I have excellent taste! Ang pangit nya and he has the gall to slide his hands at my back...grrrrrr

A morning spent in Old Goa

It was borne from too much penny-pinching... I walked (with my very very heavy backpack!) to the local bus station and saved 30 rupees! Hahaha...

Before hopping on a train from Karmali station (afternoon trip), I explore first the former Portuguese capital of Old Goa. Magnificent, huge cathedrals are just right next to each other. I first visited the Basilica of the Bom Jesus, it contains the tomb and remains of St. Francis Xavier. Most of the churches here are at least 400 years old! Walking through the galleries inside the cathedrals you can imagine the romantic grandeur of the past.

Right across the street are the Chapel of St. Catherine, the Convent & Church of St. Francis of Assisi, and the Se Cathedral. The cathedrals here at Old Goa are counted as one of the biggest cathedrals in Asia!

I left my backpack on top of a softdrink case in the 'snack-an' within the Church grounds. The owners were very obliging after I bought a couple of drinks (for my train trip to Mumbai later). It seemed sacrilegious to take photos inside pero pa-simple pa rin ako picture-taking!

Had a nice lunch of Tandoori chicken in a restaurant near the main highway and took a moto-bike ride to Karmali!

In fairness, Karmali station is by far the cleanest train depot I've been to! Really, spotless clean benches and paths!

p.s. Here are some photos with my bunkmates taken inside the train.....they loved the fact that I am also Catholic and showed me prayer books! (Feeling ko erehe talaga ako especially when they started praying silently at night time). Okay, time to read my novels --- its 15-18 hours away to Mumbai.