They are called “bandh” or general strikes, whenever there is a political disagreement between the government and the opposition parties, the political leaders usually call for a nationwide strike which can sometimes become violent. While I was in Kathmandu, there were a lot of protests and street rallies carried out by the youth wing of the Congress party. Apparently there was a senior party official who was beaten in prison and died (he was convicted of killing another person hence the prison sentence that’s why I don’t understand why they are protesting unless he is innocent and not a murderer himself!) and after that incident it was pure chaos!
On my last day in Nepal I was in for a shocker --- the opposition party leaders called for a nationwide bandh! As in, all modes of transport are not allowed. No shops or businesses are open. This is economic sabotage. When I saw a gang of thugs (I call them the way I see how they act!) shouting at an old man for daring to open his tiny shop, then they shoved and smashed his things. I mean, this is way too much!
I’ve been in some student rallies during my college years and in the Philippines, picketing and rallying is normal fare in primetime news but never like this! Why would you want to kill the livelihood of small vendors and shop owners? You want them to starve while you play at being political ideologists?
Really horrible! I have no respect for any one of them. I felt so sad for the normal Nepali people who had to endure years of Maoist insurgency, monarchial excesses, and now the economic struggle of being one of the poorest nations in the world with the constant political violence erupting every now and then. Spare these kind-hearted people from your “political” bullshit and let them have peace!
And on top of it, I was told by the hotel receptionist that since there is absolutely ZERO transport for the whole day I will have to walk (since I cannot cycle! Ugh!) from Kathmandu to Patan. Oh well, it’s only 2 hours if I walk fast enough.
Walking to Patan
Armed with the Kathmandu-Patan map that I bought from a bookshop in Thamel, from Chhetrepatti tole I went out of Thamel area and walked right along Tridevi Marg, passing by the Garden of Dreams and Naranhayiti Palace. I went straight for Kantipath Road and followed it through until the junction at Kupondole Road leading towards Pulchowk Road and Patan Dhoka.
There is also another alternative route from Thamel, you can go via Kathmandu Durbar Square then straight through to New Road then turn right towards Kantipath Road. You know you are on the right track if you pass by Kathmandu Mall then you cross a bridge over the Bagmati River, the town gate of Patan is just a few steps away from the bridge.
I passed by this white-washed religious building which at first I thought was a mosque but when I looked closely at the main door I saw this sign which resembles the Star of David, the ultimate symbol of the Jewish faith. So, is this a synagogue then?
As I had started out quite late from Kathmandu, I arrived in Patan at around 11am already. I was really pressed for time as I have to get back to my hotel by 3pm! My flight out of KTM is at 9pm on the same day!
Patan or Lalitpur (in Sanskrit) was previously one of the major kingdoms in medieval Nepal, with its kings rivaling that of neighboring Kathmandu. Today however, it looks like an extension or a suburb of Kathmandu with the throngs of people, noise, and pollution that you associate with Kathmandu.
Since guidebooks keeps on saying it’s a must-see when you are in Nepal so off I went as well --- hahaha For me, Bhaktapur is still the best-kept ancient town in the whole Kathmandu Valley!
Thank God for Lonely Planet! Instead of randomly checking all the sights around the town, I followed the recommended walking tour from Patan Dhoka to Durbar Square which lasts for at least 2 hours. I started from the city gate (dhoka) passing through a Ganesh Shrine, then right into the quiet (and almost generic) Sulima Square and walking from there it opens up into a huge pond called Pim Bahal Pokhari (with some locals sitting nearby and some kids boating around it). The pond looks picture-perfect from afar with its greenish hued water and the surrounding houses as backdrop.
You have to go anti-clockwise, passing by the 17th century built, Chandeswari Temple which if not in the guidebook I would have just passed by. It was just a small temple located in a tiny corner although it must have been a busy temple coz when I passed by there was an old woman praying in front. Just on the next turn is a whitewashed stupa which is listed as 600-year old although it looks really new.....or maybe it was newly painted?
My walking tour took me on small alleyways and cobble-stoned paths, interspersed with stops at small temples which are obviously often visited or prayed by local Newaris.
Since I don't have any pictures to look at (the brochure they gave me at the city gate is just all about the local government of Patan) or any information about the local sights, I was just blindly following the directions from my LP guide. My next stop was Lokakirti Mahavihar, a former Buddhist monastery with a small courtyard in front. I also passed by (and sometimes stepped inside for a little look-see) houses with small courtyards like below.
After going around in circles and getting lost a few times just looking for Nyakhuchowk Bahal and later the Naga Bahal, I then went to look for the Golden Temple. Its like following a map for hidden treasure. Imagine, you have to pass through this.....
Then go walk for a bit in a very tiny alley, passing through the back of the houses (as in feeling ko someone might through their garbage or trash over my head unknowingly!) till you turn into a corner with a small courtyard and there you'll find the wooden entrance to the Golden Temple, a Buddhist monastery which was first built in the 12th century and later relocated to its permanent location around the 15th century. Shoes and leather items are not allowed in the grounds although I saw some tourist not following these rules!
Take note, I’ve been walking nonstop for close to 5 hours already! I’m famished!
After going around Durbar Square, I went to Patan Museum not to look at the artifacts on display but to have lunch coz at the back of the museum is the open-air restaurant, Museum Café. You have to go inside (but not inside the museum itself) then pass through the inner courtyard and follow your nose......hehehe
The food is great but the prices can be a bit expensive. I really don’t have the energy to go looking for other places!
Time for another long walk back to Kathmandu. The scene which greeted me outside the town gate is still the same --- protesters staring back proudly at the policemen. Haaaaiiisstttt!
Ayoko nang ma-HB pa coz I need to get back to my hotel, pack up my things and check out. Then put my feet up while sipping a cup of hot jasmine tea at hotel's restaurant.
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