The legend of the Royal Kumaris

Tucked away near the “Antique’s square” and can easily be missed out in the throngs of people milling around the Square, is the small doorway of a 3-tiered red brick building and flanked by two lion statues in the entrance which opens up into a quiet courtyard in the middle of the building enclosure.

The legend of the Royal Kumaris of Nepal has always captivated my imagination. How does a “living goddess” live and where? The Kumari Bahal or “House of the Living Goddess” was built in 1757 by King Jayaprakash Malla, this is where all the chosen royal kumaris live during their reign as a living goddess.

I have read quite a few books on the subject, and the most popular one is the story of Rashmila Shakya, the author of the book “From Goddess to Mortal” which is available everywhere in Kathmandu (as in ALL bookshops and souvenir shops have it).

All Kumari Devis are selected from a particular Newari caste, usually the silver or goldsmiths caste. She must be around 4-5 years old and will be a goddess until she reached puberty. They are said to be the reincarnation of the goddess Taleju. Aside from the usual legends of her passing through a 32 perfect attributes test (which is quite impossible!), she must possess a compatible horoscope with that of the King. I don’t know how they will do this now that they don’t have a monarchy anymore.


While waiting for the Kumari Devi to come out of her window, I was amazed at the designs on the windows, so intricately done and such amazing craftsmanship! The goddess normally comes out twice a day, once in the morning and again in the afternoon at around 4-4.30pm. She is not permitted to be with mortals like us unless it’s a religious festival like Indra Jatra where she will be hoisted in her golden chariot, hence on regular days she will just come out to the peacock designed windows and wave at the tourists patiently waiting at the courtyard for a glimpse of the living goddess.

I really think the little girl in a school uniform aged around 7 years old who passed us by must be the Royal Kumari, as in feel ko lang! hahahahaha coz apparently the current Kumari now goes to school like a normal kid after her parents petitioned the government to let her get a regular education during her reign.

Anyways, curiosity sated for now. Better head on to the next place in my itinerary.

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