Mihintale: The Cradle of Srilankan Buddhism
My driver was so concerned that I did not have breakfast yet that he gave me a lengthy sermon on the virtues of having a meal before starting my day! Hahaha so we stopped off at the Hotel Mihintale, a Ceylon Hotels Corporation-managed property, government-run in other words and as expected the impression I got was so-so. I mean, the staffs were nice and smiling but the manager or officer has that pompous air that I normally associate with local people who has a certain “status”. They are so big on titles around here, as if being a manager the whole world revolves around you. Oh well, enough said.
Mihintale is a smaller town than Anuradhapura and has a cooler climate due to its higher elevation. It is also not as spread out as Anuradhapura and can be easily navigated by foot once you arrive at the bottom of the stairs towards the temple complex. Mihintale is the heart of Srilankan Buddhism as this is the starting place and where Buddhism has been first introduced to Sri Lanka. Legend has it that in 247BC, King Tissa was hunting a stag in Mihintale Hill when he came across Mahinda, the son of the great Indian Buddhist emperor, Ashoka. He immediately converted to Buddhism and became a disciple of Mahinda.
One thing that can irritate the hell out of you though is the presence of “temple guides” who charges from 800 – 1000 LKR. May-June is an off-peak period for tourism in Sri Lanka and with places like Mihintale, you would normally encounter a lot of independent travelers (it’s not in the usual package trips itinerary) climbing up the temple steps, this time around all I saw were only local tourists who obviously will have no need for a “temple guide”.
I went as far as midway through the entrance steps trying to say NO frequently to the guide who latched on to me, but I felt bad (I’m such a sucker for sob stories!) when he told me that they have a 3-day rotation due to lack of tourists and I am the first tourist who came in that day! I was in a major guilt-trip so I let him tag along and I just asked him to take photos of me. He was a gem with the camera! Hahaha
After climbing through the first set of stairs, turn right and go up in a more narrow flight of stairs to go to the Kantaka Chetiya, one of the oldest dagobas built in Mihintale. I made a mistake of wanting to have my photo taken at one of the four corners of the dagoba base only to realize that ooopppssss, it’s the flower altar stands where well-preserved sculptures of animal figures are still intact and obviously holds a sacred role in the temple prayer ritual, all flower offerings will be placed in these stands.
Surrounding the dagoba complex are numerous cave monasteries where monks used to live, meditate, or even just to relax and cool themselves off from the midday sun. We went to one of these caves, you really have to be careful with the rocky steps as it can be a bit tricky more so probably when it rains as it becomes more slippery. Around it are overhangs and ledges where monks apparently used for contemplation or meditation. It looks directly to the huge white domed Mahaseya Dagoba and the surrounding countryside.
Within these caves are ancient inscriptions which were believed to be before the Pali era in Sri Lanka. We went through the rock crevasses and it is indeed quite cool and refreshing inside, so maybe the ancient monks did have a point in preferring to stay here.
After coming out from the dagoba complex, we went further up the hill. For those who want to eschew half of the stair climbing part can opt to go via the Old Road. On the right side of the Old Road just before reaching the ticket booth is the Sinha Pokuna, a small water tank (the water source is the Cobra Pond) which the monks allegedly used for bathing. When you place both of your hands in the lion paws, you will be directly under the water sprout coming from the lion’s mouth. Must be the first shower in Mihintale, eh??? Lol
Further up the steps are the ruins of the Monk’s Refectory and the nearby Relic House. Although only a few columns and stones are left of what was originally the monastic residential complex, the rice troughs must have been made of stronger stones coz they are still unharmed and in good condition.
Going up a few steps to the Relic House, the two stone tablets in the center of the house remains standing. These tablets were inscribed with the rules and regulations of the Relic House, it also serves as the “notice board” for the monastery’s inhabitants where their duties and responsibilities are spelled out, who will gather firewood, who will cook the food, when to have breakfast, etc. Not so different from the dormitories I stayed at while in university! Hahaha
Just up the last flight of stairs before you see the Ambasthale Dagoba is the ticket booth and the shoe rack where you can leave your slippers for a small tip. The dagoba itself is very small but very preserved and during my visit was being repainted (that’s why it’s glistening white!) in preparation for the Posun Poya which is normally held during the full moon night sometime in June.
In front of the dagoba is the stone sculpture of King Tissa, they say that this is where supposedly he had originally stood while meeting Mahinda.
We then climbed up the Aradhana Gala or the Meditation Rock. It is only a short climb but since I came over on a Sunday there were a lot of local visitors also and there is always a traffic going up and down. For safety purposes, you can hold on to the metal railings but it will mean that the person you will be meeting on the way will not have a railing to hold on to as it is only one-sided. This is the time when I said Thank You to my temple guide for helping me go up.
Before going to the top, we stopped over in a small rock opening and my guide told me that this is where monks used to sit and meditate. So I clambered up to the ledge, with shaking legs and praying Our Father and visions of my rock ledge cracking and me falling down and probably cracking my head in one of the rocks scattered at the base. I was trying to coax my legs to a lotus position but they stiffened up and disobeyed, I tried not to look down otherwise I’ll freak out and get crazy!
My guide seeing my scared face told me, “its okay madam, don’t get scared I will take care of you like I would my mother!” I was like whaaaatttttt? Do I look that old????? If I was not trembling that hard I would really have answered him back but that time I was unable to utter a single word.
I was debating with myself whether to still go ahead and climb up another flight of stairs to look at the huge Mahaseya Dagoba after that harrowing date with the meditation rock but my guide told me that we can just walk slowly and he offered to carry my water bottle for me. Thank you! My old creaking bones were really screaming and cursing me!
I thought my misery was over (thinking that this is my last climb for the day!) and when my guide told me we are going back now I was immediately walking fast only to realize that we are literally going down another rocky surface! Kaloka, pinahirapan talaga ako! We are going down via the Naga Pokuna, otherwise known as the Cobra Pond, called as such because of the five-headed cobra carving in the rock surface of the pool. The water from this pool used to go down to the Sinha Pokuna which is located just beneath it.
Looking down the rocky surface where I was supposed to climb down by grabbing whatever shrubs and grasses that I can hang on to, I asked the guide if there is another way and he said, “well madam you can jump down to the pool it is very deep you will not drown!” Yeah right, tell that to a non-swimmer like me! Hahahaha buang talaga!
The climb and walking around the temple complex only took us less than 3 hours but it felt like I spent the whole day in that place! Again, a big thanks to my guide for hand-holding me through the more tricky steps and for the running commentaries about each ruin and temple, for the fantastic photos also!
Mihintale is a pocket version of Anuradhapura but a must-see nonetheless.
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